Tomfoolery’s 2025 Love Ring Exhibit Showcases Gender-Neutral Designs

By Brittany Siminitz | April 25, 2025

Tomfoolery, the London jewelry gallery known for its impressive array of independent designer creations, is once again holding its Love Ring showcase, an ode to alternative engagement rings.

An eclectic range of designs, from ultramodern to wonderfully classic and everything in between, appears at the shoppable annual exhibit, which opened on April 19 and will run through June 28. This year’s theme involves gender-neutral styles, with participants asked to submit creations that could be worn by anybody.

Participating designers hail from both the U.K.—among them, Ciara Bowles, Claire Macfarlane, Georgina Hopkin, Irena Chmura, and Leto Lama—and farther away, including Brooke Gregson and Sirciam, both based in California; Toronto’s Jilian Maddin; Japanese jeweler Januka; Australian designers Lauren MacPhail and Shimara Carlow; and New Zealand-based Meadowlark.

New York brand 12th House created the 1.05 ct. yellow sapphire Kite ring ($4,420) pictured at top. In a statement about the ring’s design, 12th House said, “These sapphire rings emerge from a ceremonial practice of wax carving, where intention transmutes into physical form. Cast in 14k gold with origin-known sapphires spanning the full color spectrum, their substantial yet refined silhouettes exist beyond gender constructs. The metal warms against any wearer’s skin, creating an intimate connection that transcends traditional categorization. Each piece carries its own energetic signature while collectively forming a complete rainbow of possibility.”

Love Ring pieces are one-of-a-kind and made exclusively for the showcase. A selection of the rings is shown below, with insights from the designer for some of them. All the rings in the exhibit are also listed on Tomfoolery’s website.

Brooke Gregson Artemis heart ring — *Artemis heart ring in 18k yellow gold with 1.45 ct. heart-shape diamond and 0.12 ct. t.w. diamonds, £7,550 ($10,080); Brooke Gregson*

Claire Macfarlane pear diamond ring — *Half halo ring in 18k yellow gold with lab-grown diamonds, £3,800 ($5,060); Claire Macfarlane*

“These genderelss rings contain fine linear detail without being fussy—delicate and strong at once. Handcrafted by creating a raised gold pattern on the surface, they are all tactile pieces to wear.” —Macfarlane

DIana Porter Love ring — *Love ring in 9k white gold with 1 ct. cushion-cut salt-and-pepper diamond, £5,200 ($6,950); Diana Porter*

Ciara Bowles Confetti ring — *Confetti ring in 9k yellow gold with 1.66 ct. morganite, pink sapphires, and salt-and-pepper diamonds, £3,795 ($5,070); Ciara Bowles*

“My new capsule collection for Tomfoolery’s Love Ring exhibition is a bold exploration of angular gemstones in cool, icy hues, creating a striking balance of strength and elegance. The sharp, geometric cuts reflect a modern aesthetic, while the ethereal tones—ranging from deep sapphires to speckled diamonds—evoke a sense of calm and clarity. Designed to transcend traditional gender boundaries, these rings embrace fluidity and individuality, offering pieces that resonate with personal expression rather than convention. By focusing on structure and color, these love rings are created as gemstone compositions, redefining them as symbols of authenticity and self-expression for all.” —Bowles

Ruth Tomlinson Barnacles band — *Barnacles band in 18k yellow gold with 0.19 ct. t.w. diamonds, £2,350 ($3,140); Ruth Tomlinson*

Ros Milar Sunken Treasure band — *Sunken Treasure band in 18k yellow gold with blue sapphires and diamonds, £6,750 ($9,010); Ros Millar*

“The one-of-a-kind Sunken Treasure collection showcases ruby, garnet, and rainbow sapphire gemstones, each delicately set within the warmth of buttery gold. The stones, reminiscent of long-lost treasures recovered from the depths of the sea, are imbued with rich, vibrant colors that capture the essence of ancient luxury. Genderless and timeless, these pieces reflect an ageless, universal beauty, meant to be worn by anyone who seeks to connect with the mystique and allure of something both precious and eternal.” —Millar

Sarah Struassberg Gemma ring — *Gemma ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.83 ct. t.w. Asscher-cut lab-grown diamonds, £3,425 ($4,570); Sarah Straussberg*

Ellis Mhairi Cameron love ring — *Three-stone oval ring in 14k yellow gold with lab-grown diamonds, £2,995 ($4,000); Ellis Mhairi Cameron*

“We have seen a huge rise in recent months in couples shopping for genderless jewelry, particularly in signet styles set with diamonds. Designing rings that transcend traditional gender norms is an important part of my brand—I am not traditionally feminine in my own style or jewelry preferences—so seeing this become more of a focus for 2025 is great. I’m seeing a range of clients opt for less classic shapes, instead picking pieces that feel more like them, rather than what tradition has historically dedicated they should choose.” —Cameron

Vazana purple sapphire ring — *Ring in 14k yellow gold with purple sapphire and diamonds, £4,360 ($5,820); Vazana*

Jilian Maddin Phoenix ring — *Phoenix ring in sterling silver with 4.94 ct. fuchsia Umba sapphire, £1,995 ($2,670); Jilian Maddin*

“The Birds of a Feather collection channels the spirit and beauty of nature’s ultimate travelers. Birds inspire the collection, not only by way of their distinct feather patterns, but also through their embodiment of freedom and movement. Birds traverse the skies on a whim, flying great distances in pursuit of their destinies. They also often exhibit behaviors that blur the lines between male and female gender identities. In avian communities, the fathers are often flamboyantly dressed while mothers are the providers of food and protection. Each piece in the collection aims to capture this androgyny by coupling classically masculine silhouettes with more feminine settings and motifs so that wearers and admirers may carry with them the best of the lessons that the bird kingdom has to offer!” —Maddin