Since 2001, 1stDibs, an e-commerce site for high-end design and antiques, has earned a reputation as a place where would-be buyers can experience such thwarted desire for objects out of their financial reach that the New York Times labeled it “1stDibs envy.”
The jewelry that populates the online marketplace is no exception. Stocked with both vintage and contemporary designs, 1stDibs is a treasure trove of jewelry spanning all styles, brand names, and price points.
Earlier this year, 1stDibs published its first jewelry report, reflecting 2023 sales and search data for the site. Anthony (Tony) Barzilay Freund, 1stDibs’ editorial director and director of fine art, spoke with JCK about the findings.
“As a leading marketplace for design, jewelry, and art, we have a unique ability to understand market trends given the depth of data we have on what consumers all over the world are searching for and buying on the platform,” Freund says. “We wanted to share our insights on the jewelry category with the industry and the audience of shoppers/buyers.”
Among the key trends? Bows are back in business! In the fourth quarter of 2023, the number of bow jewels uploaded to 1stDibs by vendors grew by 91% over the prior month.
“The popularity of bow jewelry, which is romantic and sentimental, is a large leap away from the more minimalist or sleek trends that have been prevalent in recent years,” Freund says.
Serpent motifs and signet rings also proved popular. According to the report, searches for serpent jewelry were up 15% year over year, while those for signet rings rose 13% in December compared with the average of the previous six months.
Given 1stDibs’ wide selection of vintage and antique jewels, which periods are most popular among its clientele? “Over the past two years, 62% of jewelry orders were 21st-century pieces, with 28% being from 2010 to the present,” Freund says.
Almost a third of jewelry orders were for items from the 20th century, with a pretty even distribution through the decades.
As brands go, Tiffany & Co. edged out Cartier to nab the title of 1stDibs’ top-selling jeweler in 2023.
“The quintessential American jeweler may have had ups and downs in its sales and marketing success over the last few decades, but it has still managed to retain a certain mystique in the minds of jewelry lovers, thanks in part to its storied past—Jean Schlumberger, Elsa Peretti, Paloma Picasso. and of course Truman Capote’s Holly Golightly, as embodied by the incomparable Audrey Hepburn,” Freund says.
“New designs, like the T Collection, and the resurgence of Return to Tiffany silver jewelry, as worn by Beyoncé in recent high-profile campaigns, have brought attention to the house’s signed demi-fine jewelry,” he adds. “Relatively affordable, these small pieces can be layered, which is currently on trend. I also could posit that the redesign of the company’s famed Fifth Avenue flagship, masterminded by Peter Marino, has helped to bring new luster to the brand.”
In the colored stone arena, ruby was 1stDibs’ top gem of 2023 (followed by sapphire), continuing a trend for red that’s been building across categories.
Top: Victorian snake brooch in 18k gold with diamonds, rubies, pearl, and enamel, $3,100 (sold); 1stDibs
Follow JCK on Instagram: @jckmagazineFollow JCK on Twitter: @jckmagazine
Follow JCK on Facebook: @jckmagazine
