I’ll never forget the moment I first laid eyes on the Rugiada (translation: Dew) collection by Mattia Cielo. I was in Hall 2.2 at Baselworld 2011, being shown the line by the Italian designer’s press representative. I was blown away by the playful form (looks like a Slinky, no?) and sturdy springform-like construction of the pieces, and the fact that the jewelry didn’t require sizing. I’d also seen a similar look before—five or so years ago from Turkish goldsmith Gurhan, who unveiled a 24k gold cuff with a similarly coil-like form and construction—but Cielo’s work expands on the idea through availability of bracelets, rings, earrings, and necklaces, giving consumers more options at the counter.

Altogether, there are 18 pieces in the Dew collection: rings with two–five circles or coils, bracelets with two–seven coils, colliers or necklaces with two–four circles, and earrings measuring 4 cm–9 cm in diameter; suggested retail prices range from $2,000 to $28,000. The internal mechanisms comprise a custom-made titanium alloy that offers “flexibility, lightness and resistance,” according to the designer, and the exterior components are 18k gold and diamonds, which seem to be “suspended in the air,” adds Cielo. Eventually, colored stones may be incorporated. “These are jewels that incorporate a high degree of technology internally,” he says.

Since the Swiss fair, Cielo says about 75 percent of his customers worldwide have ordered the collection, which he also showed at Couture this year. We’re just seeing the photos now because it took this long for them to be professionally photographed.

Ring in 18k pink gold has five coils and 2 cts. t.w. colorless diamonds; $10,600

Bracelet in 18k white gold has seven coils and 4.50 cts. t.w. colorless diamonds; $21,300

JCK