Antique & Estate Jewelry / Fashion / Industry / Trends

Signet and Pinky Rings Are Having a Moment (Again) for Good Reason

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When you add a piece of jewelry to your wardrobe, you may notice you become obsessed with that style and start seeing it everywhere. That’s how I’m feeling these days about signet and pinky rings.

Recently, my mom gifted me her high school ring. On the surface, it’s a classic class ring that says her school’s name and has her initials engraved on the inside. Beyond that, it’s a symbol of her at that age: petite yet mighty as she moved out of her parents’ house while still in school and fought her way through several tough years on her own.

Ever since she gave me the ring, it seems like I’m seeing a signet, pinky, or cigar ring on every celebrity and on people across the board whom I encounter when traveling. I see the rings on TV shows, too—characters on three major Netflix series prominently wear signet rings.

Emily P Wheeler pinky
Emily P. Wheeler’s Desert ombre cigar ring ($9,800) features a spectrum of orange and pink sapphires handpicked by the designer. 

There’s Dexter Mayhew (played by Leo Woodall), who sports a signet ring in many scenes on the springtime hit One Day. This has apparently sparked a trend of Gen Zers searching out signets to wear, bringing a fresh generation to this signature style.

The rings on Ripley, especially those worn by star Andrew Scott, have been influential as well. Jewelry designers have been inspired by his con-man character (who originated in The Talented Mr. Ripley novel) to create signet rings that represent elegance and power.

And who could forget Colin Bridgerton, whose swoony romance with Penelope Featherington may be the focus of Bridgerton‘s third season but who also has sparked a series of “pinky ring appreciation posts” on social media?

Verragio pinky ring
18k rose gold beaded crest signet ring ($1,800) with diamonds by Verragio Fine Jewelry 

Lynne McEachern gets it. The cofounder of jewelry brand Rey FJ knows the power of a ring and its meaning for the wearer. Inspired by a client as well as model Emily Ratajkowski, Rey FJ created its own gold-and-diamond version of Ratajkowski’s “divorce ring” and offers it as a custom piece. McEachern says she hopes more people will dust off any diamonds they have in their jewelry boxes and repurpose them into a signet ring as the ultimate celebration of their independence.

“A signet ring is a timeless statement of confidence, power, and signature style,” says McEachern. “Having historically been a male status or power symbol, a signet ring is a reminder for women to follow their own paths, trust the power of their intuition, and make their mark on the world.”

Knight ring
Vintage blue sapphire ring ($1,695) in 14k white and yellow gold from Samantha Knight

Just as a wedding ring symbolizes a commitment to your partner, a signet ring represents a commitment to yourself and strength as an individual, McEachern says.

“Wearing a signet every day can be seen as an act of self-love to stay clear on what’s most important to you as a person, separate from family, partners, kids, and friends,” she says.

“The new ‘status’ in our modern society is largely based on wellness,” she adds. “So to embrace your journey, and turn it into something beautiful, ultimately makes you queen of your own story.”

Assael pinky ring
Assael angel skin coral ring in 18k rose gold and platinum with gray chalcedony and diamonds (price on request)

Divorce might make a person reevaluate their identity, and creating a signet ring from a wedding or engagement ring is the right fit for such a time in one’s life.

“To us, a signet ring was the most obvious fit for repurposing wedding rings, honoring how you got here and celebrating new beginnings,” says McEachern. “We just love calling it a divorce ring because it elicits a reaction from everyone—the ones that think it’s fabulous and the ones that cringe.

“The more we embrace it, the more power we hold, the more gorgeous diamond signet rings there are in the world.”

Top: Rey FJ created this signet ring from a client’s repurposed diamonds, and offers it as the model for its custom “divorce ring.” (Photos courtesy of the brands) 

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Karen Dybis

By: Karen Dybis

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