In his new book, Irish master goldsmith and high jewelry designer Nigel O’Reilly (pictured) looks to dispel myths about the jewelry trade—who makes fine jewelry, where they are located, and what they must do to have a successful business.
O’Reilly traveled this month from his home in County Mayo to New York City for a private event during NYC Jewelry Week where he spoke about his book, Evolution of a Goldsmith, and about his jewelry practice and inspirations.
The book’s publication (on Nov. 21) coincided with the opening of O’Reilly’s trunk show at Bergdorf Goodman on Fifth Avenue. His high jewelry creations, including some of his latest work. will be showcased at the luxury store’s jewelry salon through Dec. 1.
In a conversation with JCK, O’Reilly says he hopes sharing his tale of taking a different path into fine and high jewelry inspires people—especially jewelry students. Plus, Evolution of a Goldsmith has pictures of a young O’Reilly with long hair like his favorite rock stars, so it’s worth it just for those images, he jokes.
“It’s showing you can do it, no matter where and who you are. You can achieve these kinds of things if you focus on your art and your skill set,” O’Reilly says. “Don’t rush it, either. I had investor opportunities, but I didn’t want to take them on and then be at their whims. That’s not what I needed.”
O’Reilly’s early years offered no guarantee of the success he’d ultimately attain. The son of a farmer, he grew up with severe dyslexia, which caused his mother (a teacher) to pull him from school and educate him herself. To avoid college, O’Reilly went to work in a factory where he made injection molds for vascular surgery. After he’d met his future wife, a desire to impress her pushed him to make jewelry.
Impress her he did—and that early ring made from medical-grade steel led O’Reilly to pursue educational programs and internships in jewelry. Eventually he would work for such jewelry greats as Van Cleef & Arpels, Stephen Webster, Garrard, and Fabergé, and present his work in shows at Sotheby’s.
O’Reilly was mentored by two famous Ireland-based goldsmiths and jewelry-makers, Rudolf Heltzel and Erwin Springbrunn, and he says that part of his reason for writing Evolution of a Goldsmith was to document his experience with those two men, who were considered among the best jewelry artisans in Europe but never put on paper what they knew about jewelry.
“I wanted the book to be a thank-you letter to the people who have helped me out. Because it doesn’t happen without people investing in me,” O’Reilly says.
When he was ready to start a business under his name, O’Reilly says he took a different approach—he set up shop in his hometown, Castlebar, more than 150 miles from Dublin and far from major fashion cities, but around people and places that fill his cup, so to speak.
Filling his wineglass may be more accurate. O’Reilly says he worked on Evolution of a Goldsmith for the better part of a year, writing from pubs and other spots near his home that helped him tell his story. Working in County Mayo was a choice, and it is one that O’Reilly says proves you don’t have to be in Paris, London, or New York to be force in the jewelry industry.
Today, O’Reilly’s jewelry is found in collections of the very wealthy and worn by Hollywood stars, including Saoirse Ronan and Julianne Moore. He specializes in colored gemstones, fine pavé settings, and 18k gold. It’s a life he never imagined for himself, but he embraces it with gratitude.
He knows that Ireland is happy for him as well.
“They are proud to have me here, and I thought I should document it. We;re doing what we’re doing in the most rural part of Ireland, the last place people expect high fine jewelry to be made,” O’Reilly says. “I’m using my remoteness as an advantage. It’s easier on my business—the rent is cheaper, and I’m in a beautiful place. I’m not under financial pressure.… And I like proving people wrong.”
(Photos courtesy of Nigel O’Reilly)
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