Something about mother-of-pearl reminds me of summertime, and it seems I have company in desiring a bit of its iridescence for my warm-weather jewelry selections.
“Mother-of-pearl” has been a top keyword search on eBay for months now, Mari Corella, eBay’s general manager for global luxury and sneakers, tells me in an email interview. In June, eBay users searched for “mother-of-pearl” more than 3.5 times a minute on average, she says.
“It is clear eBay shoppers are dreaming of an Amalfi summer. These pieces pair perfectly with casual sunny days and warm summer nights,” says Corella. (By the way, she also says eBay searches for nautical-inspired jewelry styles were up more than 40% in June compared with January.)
My interest was piqued in spring when I noticed booths sporting mother-of-pearl at JCK Las Vegas. It seemed like mother-of-pearl was shining more brightly at the annual trade show than I had remembered from past years, gaining my attention as a reporter.
I gave in and picked out my first mother-of-pearl piece: a Shinola Gomelsky watch. The name pays tribute to a certain trade-magazine editor-in-chief, but I also love the watch’s mother-of-pearl face and how it contrasts with the black leather band.
With this piece in mind, I reached out to a variety of jewelry brands and designers to see how they are using this special material in their creations.
Yvonne Léon is one of those designers who is bringing more mother-of-pearl to market in 2024. Her latest creation is a ring watch (pictured above) that features Léon’s favorite Berlingot gold texture with a mother-of-pearl dial. Four diamonds mark the hours of 12, 3, 6, and 9, a very luxe addition to this artful timepiece.
“We wanted to merge the delicacy of a ring with the precision of a watch,” Léon says via email. “A true work of art, its refined design captures the essence of time with unparalleled elegance.”
Another designer feeling mother-of-pearl love is Laura Gallon, whose eponymous brand recently released its first collection, Alice, named after Gallon’s great-grandmother and based on a pair of art deco, fan-shape platinum-and-diamond earrings her great-grandfather Georges made for his wife in 1920.
All of Gallon’s pieces are crafted in French ateliers and are delicate in their designs, with striking yet understated details. On her Ange necklace, mother-of-pearl shines beneath the round diamond at the top of the pendant, as if it were revealed when the angel (ange in French) spreads its diamond-studded 18k yellow gold wings.
“For me, that family heritage is very special. It gives sense to everything I do,” Gallon says. “During World War II, my great-grandparents left Orléans and migrated to Paris. The business ended when they passed away. It is an honor for me to bring it back to life.”
Top: Laura Gallon fashioned these Miroir earrings ($9,120) with mother-of-pearl and diamonds based on a pair her great-grandfather designed for her great-grandmother in the 1920s. (All photos courtesy of the brands.)
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