The recent surge of gorgeous men in gorgeous jewelry is beyond exciting. And these styles they’re wearing are such compelling looks that it’s easy to get swept away before you stop to ask: Is this practical? I’d jump right to saying yes—anything to see men take some fashion risks that go beyond the typical. But it’s akin to runway couture: It’s beautiful and intriguing, but at the end of the day, it’s questionable whether the average person actually has anywhere to wear it. So, do the latest high-profile jewelry looks on men—pearl necklaces, multiple rings, brooches—have legs? “Hell, yes!” I say, but as I may be a bit ambitious from my sleepy (slightly fantastical?) quarantine world, I asked some members of the industry to weigh in too. Here’s the verdict.
“I think the pandemic has forever changed the way we live, especially how we present ourselves and connect with others,” says Doris Chou Durfee of Amulet by D. “In a world of Zoom calls and masked conversations, jewelry is one way we express our individuality. Jewelry isn’t just about beauty, but also power and protection—wearing it changes the way we feel about ourselves, and that projects on those around us. Women have always known this, and I believe more men and designers are realizing this too. I’m currently working with a client who served in a unit of the U.S. Special Forces and wants a necklace that commemorates his men as well as his black belt in Brazilian jujitsu. Having someone trust me with a meaningful memento is very exciting and humbling to me as an artist.”
“Jewelry is a must nowadays in any stylish man’s wardrobe,” says Sujan Doshi of LMJ (LuvMyJewelry). “We’ve started to see more men add a touch of class to their outfits with bold signet rings featuring exotic gemstones and simple, brushed metal bracelets. Go big or go home on the rings, but keep it subtle and elegant when it comes to bracelets.”
“I think the trend is simply that men who are not necessarily super high fashion or trendsetting are feeling comfortable wearing jewelry—and not just younger men but really across the board,” says Jade Lustig, founder of Jade Trau. “Generally, I think guys will be more inclined to layer bracelets than anything else, but wearing rings on different fingers also feels like a comfort zone—a wedding band or middle finger ring along with a pinky signet or some combination like that. Does it have staying power? I think it’s just on the way in, so I sure hope so because I love a man with a sexy watch and some jewelry to fill in the look.”
“It’s been a long-standing goal of the jewelry industry to grow the market for men’s jewelry, effectively doubling the target market,” says Greg Kwiat, CEO of Kwiat. “Today there are some notable themes in men’s jewelry that are driving interest from this growing segment—men’s bracelets, from chunky link styles to cuffs, continue to be a popular style with staying power. We’re also seeing the use of pearls and neutral color gemstones recently, perhaps driven by fashion trends. While men wearing pearls dates back many generations through history, it remains to be seen whether the current popularity remains in a year or two.”
“I’m a jeweler, so I find myself checking out others’ jewelry more than anything else,” says Anj Kim, owner and designer of Thirteenth Studio. “I am a firm believer of ‘you do you’ and love how men are starting to embrace jewelry on them more and more. My favorite look is a statement ring and a long necklace—I love when guys go crazy with their jewelry and stack them up, but I also don’t want to hear chains and metals clinking when they move.”
Top: Powerbolt necklace in sterling silver with Mexican amber, $250; Amulet by D
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