Sneak Peek: See Macklowe Gallery’s Newest Jewels Before Anyone Else



We’ve talked—all year long, it seems—about how the current climate has required retailers to modernize their businesses in a hurry. And those who specialize in the antique jewelry market have been no exception.

The industry’s leading international auction houses have staged an infinite number of online-only sales throughout 2020 to great effect, and savvy dealers have adjusted their digital presences accordingly. New York City’s Macklowe Gallery recently redesigned and relaunched its website to better showcase the breadth of its inventory in a tasteful, educational, and aesthetically compelling way, while leaning into a strong e-commerce platform that’s also fully shoppable on mobile.

“We are more committed than ever to bringing an innovative approach to collecting,” president Ben Macklowe said on the occasion of the website’s relaunch. “We know that reaching a new global audience will help cement the gallery’s position as the premiere destination for 20th century decorative arts.”

The new site includes an educational section, From Our Study​, that will serve as the digital arm of Macklowe Gallery’s own private study room at 445 Park Avenue. This academic component is meant to encourage the educational growth of the next generation of collectors.

There is also a section dedicated to new web-exclusive acquisitions. Each piece is presented with curator’s notes that take curious minds and serious buyers alike on a storytelling journey, equal parts specs, romance, and historical context.

Jewelry-wise, the next batch of new arrivals is set to drop this Thursday, and a special preview of the goods on offer is presented below.

“Typically, whenever we find a piece that we like, we focus on the wearability, the collectibility, and the unique beauty or stories behind it,” says Carol Federer, Macklowe Gallery’s jewelry director. “We also like to showcase a range of jewelry at the gallery, so our assortment generally spans across multiple eras and periods, as well as multiple price points as we continue to expand on our current offerings.”

Macklowe Cartier gold and diamond pendant earrings
Pendant earrings in 18k gold with 6 cts. t.w. diamonds, $35,000; Cartier. From the gallery’s notes: “Loosely based on Jhumka forms, these pendant earrings by Cartier reflect the firm’s long relationship to India as a rich source of creative inspiration. Jacques Cartier, who helped lead the firm to international fame, cultivated deep relationships with the Indian aristocracy, some of whom stayed as honored guests at the Cartier family home outside of London.”
Macklowe Cartier gold and diamond bracelet
Circa 1980s woven mesh link gold and diamond bracelet, $55,000; Cartier 
Macklowe Cartier Lapis and diamond ring
Ring in 18k gold with lapis lazuli and diamonds, $19,500; Cartier. From the gallery’s notes: “An intriguing study of texture, light, and structure, this Cartier ring is a 1970s work of art for the hand.”
Macklowe David Webb gold and diamond ring
57th Street collection hammered gold and diamonds, $18,500; David Webb. From the gallery’s notes: “Wear this strikingly sculptural ring, with its hammered bombé form mount with stepped sides, in Webb’s spirit of passion for the past, combined with refreshing modernism.”

Macklowe Boivin lilac leaf brooch
Circa 1940 art moderne Lilac Leaf brooch in gold with tourmalines, aquamarines, and beryls, $37,500; René Boivin. From the gallery”s notes: “A celebrated design by Juliette Moutard…[who] worked collectively with the owner Jeanne Boivin and her daughter, Germaine, to source ideas; as the only one of the group with skill in draftsmanship, Juliette drew for all three, bringing all their imaginative designs to life on paper.”
As the pieces above (and up top) illustrate, “we’ve noticed that our clients are leaning more toward gold jewelry—something they can wear every day as they work from home,” says Federer. “That being said, as the holidays are upon us, I think women are eager for an excuse to get dressed up, whether or not it’s just for their immediate family or for Zoom. Rings have been especially popular, and we’re starting to see a resurgence of interest in color. I think people are paying more attention to colored pieces in order to spark joy and brighten up the dark days we’re all experiencing, and I expect that to continue through the spring of this upcoming year.”

Top: Van Cleef & Arpels gold and diamond pendant necklace, $65,000. From Macklowe Gallery’s notes: “The dynamic geometric motifs are creatively extended and completed by the draping, flexible swags of trace-link chains, while the smooth, polished gold is counterbalanced by a few contrasting lines of brilliant-cut diamonds. The removable pendant and ability to convert into long and short options make this piece the ideal for everyday wear.”

Follow me on Instagram: @aelliott718

Amy Elliott

JCK Contributing Editor

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