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The Italian Jewelry Manifesto Was Molto Bene

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I’d already heard so much about the Italian Jewelry Manifesto, and, with the promise of seeing 50 designers and makers from Vicenza, Valenza, Arezzo, Orvieto, and beyond—right in the heart of midtown Manhattan—I decided I had to check it out for myself.

I’m so glad I did. The venue, Piazza Italia on Madison Avenue, was light, bright, and spacious. Intimidation factor: low. Energies were high, smiles were abundant. There were super-high heels and well-tailored suits. And so much gold. Piles and piles of it being worn or laid out on velvet-lined trays.

The event was not bustling when I was there last week, but I was told that many retail buyers were in attendance. The pace of my visit was easy and allowed plenty of time for discovery, questions, and conversations.

Let’s get into the pretty things I saw.  I’ll start with what I think will be most helpful to readers planning to attend Las Vegas Jewelry Week next month: three Italian Manifesto designers who will also be exhibiting at Luxury and JCK Las Vegas.

There was the Arezzo, Italy-based brand Neonero (booth 21026B), which has the most beautiful gold pieces inspired by the lacework traditions of Tuscany. Light-as-air openwork unites the many, many SKUs in the collection (I fell madly in love with a pair of swingy chandelier earrings dangling strands of buttery, shimmery fringe that I can confirm are very well priced, especially for 18k).

neonero bracelet
Forme Preziose bracelet in 18k gold, $5,225; Neonero

Boccadamo (booth 23007) has a massive catalog of options, all heavy on “chic Italian lady” fashion jewelry and statement parures set with colorful cabochons.

Boccadamo bracelet and necklace
Caleida collection necklace and bracelet in rose gold–plated bronze with CZ and pyramidal colored crystals, prices on request; Boccadamo

And I’d heard about Marco Dal Maso (exhibiting with the Gioielli Group, LUX 630) from Reinhold Jewelers, who named them a must-see as far men’s and unisex jewelry when I interviewed one of the store’s executives for this story. Some men’s ranges feel kind of one-note and generic, but the options here are so elevated and diverse: braided leather; tough-luxe links; hard stones such as lapis, onyx, and aventurine; and a million unexpected details worked into the metals that make each piece feel distinctive and special.

Marco Dal Maso ring
Ara ring in 18k vermeil and burnished silver, $317; Marco Dal Maso

My favorite discovery at the show came from Vicenza-based Peruffo Jewelry, where everything was an architectural, innovative, and masterfully executed delight. Maybe I just haven’t seen Italian-made jewelry in a while, but the ring below, in particular, made me giddy. I love when the jewelry is so good I have a visceral reaction!

You can’t tell from the photo below, but it moves with absolute precision as you shake your hand about (see photo at top for a sense of this).

Peruffo sunset ring
Slide Sunset ring in 18k gold, $ 1,570; Peruffo

Here are some more finds from my little vacanza in jewelry heaven below.

 

Orogami necklace
Seed necklace in 18k yellow gold, $11,820; Orogami
Anna Porcu cuff
One-of-a-kind leather bracelet with circa 1880 shell cameo in an antique 14k yellow gold frame, $5,800; Anna Porcu
Misis ring
Reef Party ring in 18k gold–plated sterling silver with CZ pavé and red coral enamel, $225; Misis
Le Sibille pendant
Lightray pendant in 18k gold with white and brown diamonds, and Roman micro mosaics, $21,000; Le Sibille

 

Angry for Vittorio rings
Sunflower ring in 18k yellow gold set with brown and yellow diamonds and green sapphires, $19,250, and Pink Rose ring in 18k rose gold with pink sapphires, $8,925; both Angry for Vittorio & Co.

 

Fiore Gioielli rings
Assorted Archetti collection rings in 18k rose gold with diamonds and sapphires, $1,500 to $4,500 each, Fiore Roberta

 

Top: The Slide Sunset ring from Peruffo has moves to spare (photo by @aelliott718).

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Amy Elliott

By: Amy Elliott

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