Now that the dust from Las Vegas Jewelry Week 2023 has settled, it’s easier to see one of the most obvious color themes that emerged at the JCK, Luxury, and Couture shows. And it has nothing to do with Barbie, the live-action movie (due out July 21) that has sent pink-hued jewels into the pop culture stratosphere this summer.
No, the theme that we saw in Vegas, and that we’re continuing to see into the fall, is a combination of two colors most jewelers know and love: blue and green. Call it an extension of last summer’s “coastal grandmother” trend or a reflection of the recent popularity of mermaidcore, but the ocean-inspired color pairing feels de rigueur.
What’s unique about the 2023 take on these colors is the wide variety of gems jewelers are choosing to create just the right blue and green matchup. Most designers—including Kim and Nicole Carosella of Sorellina and Lauren Kessler of Lauren K—have turned to faceted and cabochon examples of the usual suspects: lapis lazuli and sapphires to capture the blue side; tsavorite, malachite, and emeralds for the green.
But plenty of others are reaching for more unusual materials, such as opals, alexandrites, even hauyne (a sodalite mineral with a bright blue hue), to create a more nuanced palette. In Katherine Jetter’s case, it’s blue rhodium that lends her bangle bracelet below an electric vibe.
Whether the final piece leans pastel for a summery look, or incorporates saturated gems more appropriate for fall and winter, the consensus is the same: Jewelers are on a blue-green streak that shows no signs of slowing.
Top: Platinum ring with 2.48cct. cobalt blue spinel, 0.06 ct. t.w. hauyne, 0.28 ct. t.w. Paraiba tourmaline, and 0.22 ct. t.w. diamonds, $42,000; Omi Privé
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