In the watch world, two-tone typically refers to the combination of yellow gold and steel, while in jewelry, the term usually means the pairing of yellow gold with silver, the latter often blackened for an extra high contrast.
Lately, however, jewelers have gravitated to a more upscale two-tone combination featuring the two most precious of metals, yellow gold and platinum.
For some, like Eliza Walter, founder of the London-based jewelry brand Lylie, the point of using both gold and platinum is to make the ring both structurally sound as well as cost-efficient. “We now use 18 karat gold and we pair it with platinum because platinum is so much less expensive than 18 karat white gold now,” Walter says. “But actually, platinum can be a really good option for setting stones. And it’s an interesting metal in clients’ minds because I think they still think of platinum as a more valuable substance than gold.”
Walter cited her Zizila Etruscan ring, a thick yellow gold band studded with five lab-grown diamonds in graduating sizes, totaling 1.24 cts. “The ring has been a part of our collection, but it’s more efficient now,” Walter says. “And that’s definitely where we would guide our clients towards in their decision-making.”
For designer Jade Ruzzo, whose bold, high-polish Markie ring features a thick platinum band set with a 1.19 ct. yellowish diamond, the combination of cool and warm tones is all about aesthetics.
“The diamond is a warm YZ color, which I selected because I loved the idea of turning the classic ‘white diamond and white platinum’ pairing on its head,” Ruzzo tells JCK. “It feels very fresh and cool. I also paired platinum with Brazilian rosewood and a brown zircon stone within this capsule to further explore the warm and cool color contrast.”
Top: Ring in platinum and 18k yellow gold with 2.76 ct. emerald-cut diamond and 0.48 ct. t.w. tapered baguettes, $82,040; Rahaminov
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