While there’s plenty to look forward to in Bonhams‘ highly anticipated New York Jewels sale on Dec. 4, one piece in particular stands out: a Verdura for Chanel Maltese cross cuff formerly owned by Academy Award–winning actress Helen Hayes.
The bracelet—set with a 13.4 ct. amethyst and 10.4 cts. t.w. emeralds plus sapphires, rubies, and aquamarine—was designed by influential Italian jeweler Fulco Santostefano della Cerda, the Duke of Verdura, in his early years working for Chanel. Before opening his own New York boutique in 1939, Verdura was Chanel’s head of jewelry design for eight years. His Maltese cross cuff remains a hallmark for the brand today.
The Bonhams sale marks the first time the Maltese cross bangle owned by Hayes has gone to auction. It carries an estimate between $125,000 and $225,000. The bracelet was purchased for Hayes, known as “the first lady of the American theater,” in the 1930s by her husband, playwright Charles MacArthur.
Other prized pieces in the Dec. 4 auction include a circa 1945 three-stone fancy intense blue diamond ring (estimated to sell for $300,000 to $500,000), a necklace with a 17 ct. fancy yellow diamond and 62.75 cts. t.w. other diamonds (estimate $220,000–$320,000), and a 3 ct. fancy light blue diamond ring ($200,000 to $300,000).
“The forthcoming New York jewelry sale has some impressive blue, pink, and white diamonds, together with an exceptional collection of colored gemstones and natural pearls,” said Caroline Morrissey, Bonhams’ director and head of jewelry in New York, in a statement. “But the star of the sale is the rare 1930s Chanel gem-set and enamel Maltese cross cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel. It is an honor to bring such a rare piece with impeccable provenance to auction for the first time.”
(Photos courtesy of Bonhams)
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