Designers / Gold / Industry

9 Pieces That Prove Gold and Pearls Are a Match Made in Jewelry Heaven

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Although it’s been gradual, the transformation of the pearl over the past two decades, from a ladylike accessory favored by brides and grandmothers into, arguably, the gem world’s most promising and provocative player, is the jewelry story of the 2020s.

Not that long ago, the words pearl and trend had no business being in a sentence together. The seaborne gems were sold as strands or delicate drop earrings, perfect for tradition-loving women, but rarely, if ever, were they used in fashion-forward settings that subverted their long-standing reputation as hyperfeminine.

Now those very same gems are playing a starring role in some of the most provocative, gender-bending collections the industry has ever seen. Mikimoto’s daring collaboration with Commes des Garçons in January 2020, on a range of pearl necklaces expressly designed for men, signaled a major shift in the gem’s image.

Contemporary designers have taken that conversation and run with it. Last month, for example, the U.K.-based jewelry brand Missoma debuted its second gender-inclusive collection and first foray into pearls. The fashionable pieces, which are crafted in gold-plated metal and freshwater pearls, are shown on both men and women, further cementing the idea of pearls as genderless.

The pairing of pearls with yellow gold only enhances their on-trend appeal. Check out the nine pieces highlighted below (and at top) for proof of that winning combination.

RVP Snow White Pearl
Snow White dagger pendant in 18k yellow, rose, and black gold with 14.5 mm Australian pearl on blush akoya pearl necklace with faceted front clasp in 18k yellow gold, $24,606; Rosa Van Parys Jewelry
Ashley Zhang mother of pearl signet ring
Mother of Pearl Crescent Moon signet ring in 14k gold, $1,200; Ashley Zhang Jewelry
Katkim Grande Pearl Oasis necklace
Grande Pearl Oasis necklace in 18k gold with floating 8 mm akoya pearl with a 0.06 ct. bezel-set diamond on 24-inch diamond-cut cable chain, $2,300; Katkim Fine Jewelry
Sweetpea pearl cluster ring
Pearl Cluster ring in 18k yellow gold with white seed pearls and moonstones, $460; Sweet Pea Jewellery
Judith Ripka pearl bracelet
Paloma cuff in 18k yellow gold with baroque freshwater pearls and diamonds, $7,800; Judith Ripka
Hernan Herdez Costa ring
Costa ring in 18k gold–plated brass with offset freshwater pearl, $222; Hernán Herdez
Missoma pearl necklace
Baroque Beaded T-Bar necklace in 18k gold–plated brass with freshwater pearls, $420; Missoma
Flora Bhattachary earrings
Pearl earrings in 18k yellow gold with 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,800; Flora Bhattachary

Top: Radiating hoop earrings in 18k gold with cultured freshwater pearls, $3,295; Ippolita

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By: Victoria Gomelsky

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