Exhibitors headed to the VicenzaOro fair in Vicenza, Italy, Jan. 20–25 are optimistic, and with good reason. Buyers worldwide are cautious, but all signs point to continued interest in seeing fresh styles.

Yoko London CEO Michael Hakimian says he is pleased with business in 2016, “despite some political and economic turbulence in many key markets.” The brand’s newest partners include Saks Fifth Avenue in the United States and Holt Renfrew in Canada. With its new Novus and Pendulum collections, the brand is focusing on styles that can be worn easily and frequently.

“We are finding that clients no longer want to buy fine jewelry and keep it locked up in a safe,” Hakimian says. “They want to enjoy their jewelry and to have the opportunity to wear it often, and in a variety of ways.”

Utopia Jewels is also experiencing a bump from its newest worldwide accounts, including the Milan-based department store La Rinascente, as well as boutiques run in partnership with retailers. The only region that has thwarted growth expectations, says CEO Anna Gaia, is the former Soviet Union: “The market conditions over there are unstable, and they are being very conservative in presenting new collections to the markets.” To combat that resistance, Gaia offers “romantic glamorous fashion” by way of her pearl jewels—in step with trends spotted on runways. Pearls had a presence in several spring 2017 couture shows in Paris.

Nanis is also experiencing growth, to the tune of 20 percent in 2016, and will capitalize on this momentum at Vicenza, says Paula K. Peterson, managing director for North America. She credits the Italian firm’s success to its mission: changing consumers’ perception of jewelry as stodgy. She’ll continue to spread the message about Nanis fine jewelry, which she describes as luxury “closer to the fashion accessories world.”
Ring in 18k yellow gold with 4.95 cts. t.w. cabochon-cut aquamarines and 0.04 ct. t.w. diamonds; $980; Nanis, Miami; 305-534-7669; nanis.it

Jennifer Heebner

JCK's Market Editor