Antique & Estate Jewelry / Blogs: All That Glitters

A Closer Look at Cartier’s Patented Home Front Brooch

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Overtly patriotic, Cartier’s Home Front spinel brooch was made during the 1940s to show support for the United States’ efforts in World War II—and now it could be yours for $98,500 through New Orleans-based M.S. Rau Antiques.

Created in association with the Friends of Soldiers & Sailors organization, the brooch features a patented design that gives the illusion of an American flag bursting from a gold star adorned with diamonds. Its reflection and effect change as the brooch is moved and viewed at different angles.

Cartier Home Front Spinel Brooch
Cartier Home Front brooch (circa 1940s) in 14k gold with a 6.35 ct. crimson spinel and diamonds, $98,500; M.S. Rau Antiques

In the center is a substantial 6.35 ct. octagonal crimson spinel that originated in Burma, as certified by the American Gemological Laboratories. The stone shows no signs of heat, which accounts for its deep red vibrance and value.

An appendix letter accompanying the brooch states that the center stone “possesses a richly saturated ‘fiery’ red color that distinguishes a fine spinel. Its superior color is further complemented by a finely crafted octagonal step cut form, resulting in richly vibrant internal color reflections and brilliance.”

Cartier Home Front Spinel Brooch
Another angle on Cartier’s Home Front spinel brooch, showcasing the patented design

The brooch was also discussed in American Jewelry: Glamour and Tradition, a 1987 book by Penny Proddow and Debra Healy that traced significant jewels throughout American history and their roles.

Sale of the Home Front piece provides the opportunity to own not only an important piece of history but also a one-of-a-kind, interactive style. Its illusory design (as shown here) is exclusive to Cartier.

Top: Cartier’s Home Front spinel brooch, created during World War II to promote patriotism (photos courtesy of M.S. Rau Antiques)

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By: Annie Davidson Watson

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