I’ve never been much for orange. Like many consumers, I’m drawn to the cool, soothing tones of blue and green, which make gemstones like sapphire and tourmaline so appealing.
Because I’m not much for orange, the orange jewels that do catch my eye—such as Kia Schwan’s Abacus ring—are all the more special. They feel like a novelty, almost exotic because they’re so different from my typical taste.
Kia Schwan makes Abacus in different styles and with a variety of gemstones, but this crisp orange version—with coral, amethyst, and diamonds—feels wonderfully fresh.
Lovingly dubbed the “sushi ring” by brand founder Kia Schwaninger, Abacus is the “ring that got things rolling,” according to Schwaninger, who released her first collection, Colorhythms, earlier this year (she started her company in 2020, taking on custom designs for private clients). One sensationally cool iteration of the Abacus ring has chrysoprase, turquoise, and malachite.
Before going out on her own, Schwaninger worked for more than 15 years working at such high jewelers as Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Harry Winston. “Even after having worked with some of the world’s most renowned stones, I find a carved chalcedony just as alluring as a flawless diamond,” Schwaninger says on her website.
“I’m simply in love with color, from the bright blue turquoise to the fiery red spinel to a deep green malachite. It’s about beautiful, alluring, and well-crafted design for me that is harmonious and makes the wearer feel beautiful and powerful.”
The Swiss designer takes inspiration from the art deco architecture of New York City—where she is based—and Miami. The collection’s name is an ode to French artist Robert Delaunay’s Rhythms painting, and you can clearly see its influence in the disc-based earrings, rings, pendants, and brooches.
If such pieces were candy, I’d eat them all up. But this juicy orange piece, exquisitely accented with diamonds in detail that can only (perhaps tritely) be described as luxury, proves both seasonally ideal and everlastingly seasonless.
Top: Abacus 5 ring in 18k rose gold with three shades of coral, diamond accents, and amethyst half-moons, price on request; Kia Schwan
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