Antique & Estate Jewelry / Blogs: All That Glitters

Chanel, Dior, and YSL Jewels in Bonhams’ Paris Haute Couture Auction

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On April 16, Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr in Paris will host a landmark auction celebrating visionary fashion designers, 1910–2010: 100 Years of Haute Couture From Paul Poiret to Rick Owens. While the sale showcases iconic couture from Chanel, Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent and such special pieces as a 1927 Gabrielle Chanel evening gown and Paco Rabanne’s futuristic aluminum minidress, it also includes an exceptional selection of signed jewels.

A major highlight is a rare Chanel sautoir created by the legendary Maison Gripoix in the 1920s (pictured below). Composed of transparent and colored crystal, the necklace epitomizes Chanel’s early embrace of bold costume jewelry as integral to her revolutionary vision of modern elegance.

Chanel sautoir
Chanel by Maison Gripoix sautoir, circa 1927, estimate $3,300–$4,400

From Christian Dior, the Bonhams auction features jewelry designed by John Galliano during his tenure at the maison that exemplify Galliano’s theatrical romanticism, including an enameled metal flower necklace (pictured at top) and a fringed choker and matching earrings with pearl beadwork.

Dior set
John Galliano for Christian Dior choker and earrings with mini pearls and daisy motif, circa 2005, estimate $2,200–$2,800

Yves Saint Laurent collectors will appreciate two rare pieces (pictured below) designed by Robert Goossens, both showing his mastery of transforming humble materials into dramatic statements: a gold-plated multicolor rhinestone necklace and a coral-effect necklace in blue lacquered metal.

Saint Laurent sautoir
Yves Saint Laurent by Robert Goossens necklace in hammered gold plate with rhinestones imitating previous gems, circa 1988, estimate $660–$880
Saint Laurent necklace
Yves Saint Laurent by Robert Goossens necklace with coral of blue lacquered metal, rhinestones, and gold-plated chain, from fall/winter 1978 ready-to-wear collection, estimate $660-$880

“The world of haute couture encompasses an invaluable heritage in French luxury with the creation of one-off pieces of exceptional craftsmanship designed by the atelier for private clients,” Hubert Felbacq, head of fashion and bags at Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr, said in a statement. “It is a delight to be able to share the secret world of fashion at auction.”

Top: John Galliano for Christian Dior necklace with flowers in enameled metal, from fall/winter 2001 ready-to-wear collection, estimate $2,200–$2,800

(Photos courtesy of Bonhams)

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By: Annie Davidson Watson

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