Bernd Munsteiner, Gem-Cutting “Picasso,” Dies

By Rob Bates | June 13, 2024

Bernd Munsteiner, the inventor of the fantasy cut who was sometimes dubbed the “Picasso of gems,” died on June 6 in Stipshausen, Germany. He was 81.

Munsteiner was born into a multigenerational gem-cutting family, and began working as an apprentice at just 14. He later studied at the Pforzheim School of Design. He won his first major award, a gold medal at a Munich craft fair, at age 25.

As a gem cutter, Munsteiner broke from past conventions, which mandated gems be cut to a strict set of “ideal” parameters. Instead, he developed what came to be known as the fantasy cut, which historians now say modernized gem cutting.

“The only ideal proportion he acknowledged was the one that freed the natural beauty he saw hiding in the stone,” said the GIA’s website. “Many in the gem and jewelry trade didn’t know what to make of the fantasy cut. But the critics eventually became admirers, and Munsteiner’s pieces ended up in galleries and museums.”

His most notable creation was probably the 10,363 ct. Dom Pedro, which is considered the world’s largest cut aquamarine. Fashioned from a piece of rough that measured 23.5 inches, the 14-inch tall finished product took Munsteiner 10 months to create. It is now on display at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, close to the Hope Diamond.

Dom Pedro aquamarine — *The Dom Pedro (photo courtesy of Smithsonian”s National Museum of Natural History)*

Later in his career, Bernd and son Tom spent three years designing agate windows for a local church.

“Bernd was a very cheerful person and brought back something he found from every walk to inspire new gemstone designs,” said his daughter-in-law, Jutta, in a statement. “Going through life with open eyes was his motto.”

Bernd Munsteiner is survived by Hanne, his wife of nearly 60 years; daughter-in-law Jutta; and grandson Philipp, all of whom work in the family business. He was pre-deceased by his sons Tom, also an accomplished gem cutter, and Jörg.

“Philipp will continue the life’s work and legacy of the Munsteiner family, of Tom Munsteiner, and Bernd Munsteiner,” said a post from Atelier Munsteiner on Instagram. “Bernd’s vision, passion, and excellence enables us to look to our future with confidence and pride.”

Added Philipp: “Bernd opened the door to the magical world of gemstones for me and Tom. He was the first to change the way gemstones were cut and I am very proud of him and his biggest fan.

“With a lot of patience and love, he taught me how to cut at an early age. Bernd looked after me during every phase of my childhood and is therefore my childhood hero. He left a mark in my heart and will remain in my memory forever.”

Top: Bernd Munsteiner (photo courtesy of the Munsteiner family)