Alexander Calder was famous for his large, colorful (often humorous) mobiles. Only on very rare occasions would the sculptor handcraft jewelry—and only for his most near and dear. One such rarity is a brass belt buckle he made in 1946 for his friend Florence Knoll Bassett, the interior design genius behind Knoll.
“Calder was most well-known for his kinetic sculptures, but occasionally he would create works of jewelry for his closest friends,” antique retailer M.S. Rau‘s jewelry sales manager, Mallory Whitten, tells JCK. “This piece was created for the artist’s dear friend Florence Knoll Bassett. The tongue-in-cheek design is a reference to Bassett’s nickname ‘Shu,’ based on her maiden name Schust.”
Mimicking the shape of a heeled crakow or winklepicker shoe (both exaggerated, unnaturally long, and even comical-looking styles), the belt buckle certainly exudes Calder’s sense of humor. And while staying true to Calder’s artistic approach, the buckle was as functional as it was visually stimulating. Most obviously used to secure a belt, the buckle can also be repurposed as a pendant to a necklace or adornment to a scarf.
An indicator of the depth of their friendship, the buckle was one of three pieces Calder made Bassett throughout their lifetimes. His other famous artist friends, including Georgia O’Keeffe, Peggy Guggenheim, and Man Ray, never received that many. Bassett and Calder bonded over their love for art and design from the moment they met in the 1940s.
After being exhibited in the 1964 Calder retrospective at the Guggenheim and the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 2008–09 show dedicated to the late sculptor’s jewelry, the distinctive, wearable work of art is now available for purchase through M.S. Rau. “We’re excited to have the opportunity to rehome such a personal and well-loved piece of jewelry from the artist,” says Whitten.
Top: Alexander Calder “Shu” belt buckle (circa 1946) in brass, $74,500; M.S. Rau (Photo courtesy of M.S. Rau)
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