Last weekend in Dallas, the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) unveiled the winners of its Spectrum and Cutting Edge Awards for 2024 and presented hundreds of colored gemstone entrants in the annual competition—some artfully mounted in jewelry, some loose, all impressive on a variety of compelling levels.
The private event in the Omni Frisco Hotel at the Star provided a glittering tapestry of gems and jewels for a select group of editors and VIPs to try on, photograph, and excitedly respond to with all manner of exaltations.
Trends among this year’s entries included an abundance of tourmaline—particularly paraíba and rubellite—and blue and green gems. There were also small concentrations of finished jewels with fantasy-cut or carved gems as focal points; double-finger and toi et moi rings; vibrant zircons; and glowy sage green and rainbow moonstones.
“I was most impressed with the intricacy of designs, and quality of the manufacturing was superior overall,” says John W. Ford Sr., CEO of AGTA. “There were a number of pieces that combined many colors of gemstones, and I think we’re going to see that quality of manufacturing continue to increase as color becomes even more popular and as the quality of the cutting also improves.”
Laguna Beach, Calif.–based designer Adam Neeley’s Cromatica earrings (pictured at top) in titanium and 14k white gold featuring 20.66 cts. t.w. tanzanite, 23.62 cts. t.w. garnet, and 1.26 cts. t.w. diamonds won three Spectrum Awards: Editor’s Choice, 1st place in the Fashion Forward category, and 2nd place for Evening Wear.
1st Place, Engagement Rings
An Engagement Rings category made its debut this year and comprised 21 entries, with Omi Gems’ tsavorite beauty (pictured above) selected as the winner.
While last year’s Best of Show Spectrum winner, a cocktail ring set with a 15.22 ct. black opal (also created by Omi), was all about the magnificence of the stone, this year’s Best of Show was a celebration of design and craftsmanship—a brooch from Joseph Dardashti Ltd. with various precious gems adorning multiple butterflies. The piece also won 1st place in Evening Wear.
Best of Show
Judges for the AGTA awards were Jean Francois Bibet a design and production specialist with a background in French high jewelry; Sherry Bender of the Goldsmith Ltd., Chicago; Susan Jacques, president and CEO of GIA; and jewelry designer Suzy Landa. The 1st-place winners in some categories are pictured below.
Cutting Edge, Best Carving
Cutting Edge, North American Mined Gemstones
Business/Day Wear; Platinum Honors
Classical
Menswear; Best Use of Platinum and Color; Platinum Honors
AGTA president Kimberly Collins, owner of Kimberly Collins Colored Gems in Reno, Nev., observed: “There were a lot of carved stones and a number of Tom Munsteiner–cut gems, which was likely a nod of respect to his life’s work.”
Overall, were there any trends to start tracking now for the upcoming Tucson gem shows?
“Buyers should be on the lookout for bicolor and multicolor gems and loads of tourmaline in the full spectrum of colors,” Collins tells JCK.
Many of the winning pieces will be on display during the AGTA GemFair in Tucson, from Feb. 3 to Feb. 9, 2025. See the full list of Spectrum and Cutting Edge winners here.
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