For a while there, a marquise-cut diamond ring smacked of dated 1980s style. It was basically the gemstone equivalent of a mullet.
Fast-forward a few decades, however, and the cut is the essence of chic—so much so that the Natural Diamond Council all but pronounced it the silhouette of the year in its latest trend report.
For all its contemporary appeal, the marquise-cut is far from new. On the contrary, it’s the only cut to boast a centuries-old noble heritage. In 1745, King Louis XV of France is said to have commissioned a diamond to be cut in the shape of his lover’s lips. Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, also known as the Marquise de Pompadour, lives on in the countless rings that continue to be made in her pouty likeness.
Many of the most au courant styles, such as the ones showcased below, feature a marquise-cut diamond (or, in the case of the Marrow ring, a fancy moval, aka the marriage of a marquise and an oval) in a simple solitaire design. What’s new about most of these pieces is the east-west setting of the stone, which could easily double as a brilliant take on the evil eye. Bonus: The spare style has an undeniable unisex appeal.
Top: Double row wire band in 18k yellow gold with 0.4 ct. t.w. bezel-set marquise diamond, $4,300; Mimi So
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