Every spring, we ask JCK jewelry director and resident style guru Randi Molofsky to highlight the year’s emerging trends. And every year, Molofsky, the owner of For Future Reference, a bicoastal brand development agency that represents some of the industry’s most talented designers, delivers a first-rate forecast.
Below, she shares a quintet of emerging trends that should guide your decision-making as you prepare for buying week in Las Vegas:
Gold Strategies Galore
“People are trying to figure out how to deal with the price of gold. There’s very much a two-tone situation happening. People are more interested in that look. But I wouldn’t say high-end designers are moving into silver. Instead, they’re doing a lot of beaded stuff, a lot of chain and gemstone bead necklace alternatives that are not gold. Pearls are still there on the fashion runways. Jewelers are still bringing in leather cords and alternative materials for necklaces so people can do the gold pendants but have another option for the chain—whether it’s silk, leather, or velvet cords.
“We’re going to be seeing more pendants sold separately, allowing people to pick the chains they want to have so the person who still wants the gold chain can have that option. People are making jewelry more adjustable so people can buy it piecemeal and decide where and how they want to wear it.”
The Return of Red
“Traditionally, people don’t gravitate to red, but I’m seeing it more with gems like malaya garnet and carnelian. It’s a big thing in interior design, this whole ‘add a pop of red’ concept, like one red chair, or one red vase to create visual interest and draw the eye. Maybe that’s carrying over to jewelry? And there’s growing interest in rubies in more fashionable designer-driven jewels, whereas before it was very traditional.
“I see people asking for red now—even in the vintage space, people are asking. Plus, a couple of my brands have made some red pieces and I was surprised that they sold immediately once we started showing them.”
Cosmic Symbols, Rope Motifs
“This spring, everyone and their mom has put out a zodiac collection. I see it everywhere. For whatever reason, that seems to be the hot motif right now.
“There are a lot of rope motifs at the moment, or designs that are woven or textured in a way that feels like the goal is to make them look handmade, or like something done with textiles or weaving. David Yurman’s Sculpted Cable collection, a rope motif, is like that.”
Gem-Forward Cocktail Rings
“People are looking at bigger gem-forward cocktail rings where the setting is not as important as the stone. That takes away some of the gold weight and labor and puts the emphasis on the gem.
“Color-wise, I feel people are leaning into this pastel moment. Designers who traditionally work in saturated gemstones are leaning into pastels, bicolor tourmalines, and some lighter colors. Those stones may offer little bit of a cost savings but also, times are hard and people want something that’s pretty.
Brooches or Bust
“It’s been a red carpet thing but I think people are more interested in buying brooches and pins. People are incorporating them into their everyday wardrobes. I’m constantly seeing people calling them in editorially and stylists using them. And they’re using the brooches in interesting places: on the hair or on the belt. I loaned Rachel Zegler’s stylist an apple brooch for the Snow White press tour and she put it on her bow in her hair. I loved that.”
Top: Emerald Bead II 18-inch necklace in 18k and 22k gold with 78 cts t.w. emerald beads and 2.9 cts. t.w. emerald marquise drops, $12,200; Khepri Jewels
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