Colored Stones / Designers / Diamonds / Gold / Industry / Watches

3 Gem-Set Timepieces That Blur the Lines Between Jewelry and Watchmaking

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When Usher attended the Met Gala in May wearing a $5 million Jacob & Co. Billionaire III watch studded with 147.65 cts. of emerald- and baguette-cut rubies, he was merely the latest male celeb to embrace the bejeweled watch trend.

Then, in June, a number of French luxury maisons unveiled high jewelry collections featuring timepieces lavished with colored stones.

Never have gem-set watches felt so de rigueur.

In that spirit, we’re spotlighting three new models that offer unique takes on the notion of a jewelry watch. Let us know your favorite in the comments!

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41 mm

In 2018, Audemars Piguet introduced its chunky, masculine Royal Oak Offshore model on a camouflage-patterned rubber strap. This year, in March, the brand unveiled two Royal Oak prototypes, in chroma ceramic and chroma gold, with a similar camo pattern.

At the end of May, the brand took the camo look to a new extreme when it introduced two fully paved 41 mm Royal Oak self-winding models decked out in a gem-set camouflage pattern that extends from the dial to the case and bracelet. Composed of 861 baguette-cut stones in graduated shades of blue or in green, brown, and black tones, the motif lends Audemars Piguet’s most iconic model a wild, disco-infused sensibility.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak gem-set
Royal Oak Selfwinding in 41 mm 18k white gold case with 44.32 cts. t.w. gemstones, price on request; Audemars Piguet

The blue version features 44.32 cts. of sapphires and Swiss blue topaz set in 18k white gold, while the other reference (also in 18k white gold) combines 39.91 cts. of black sapphires, saturated and light tsavorites, and smoky quartz to achieve a more traditional camo color scheme.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak gem-set green
Royal Oak Selfwinding in 41 mm 18k white gold case with 39.91 cts. t.w. gemstones, price on request; Audemars Piguet

Piaget Emerald Cuff Watch

In June, Piaget introduced Essence of Extraleganza, a high jewelry lineup celebrating the company’s 150th anniversary. The masterpiece of the collection’s 96 one-of-a-kind jewels and bejeweled timepieces, according to Piaget CEO Benjamin Comar, is the cuff watch brimming with 26.11 cts. of baguette-cut Colombian emeralds.

Each element of the dramatic cuff, including the baguette-cut diamonds that spill over the sides, is mounted on a different level to accentuate its depth. The timepiece is articulated and underscored with a coil of yellow gold and a dial of green enamel.

“Stunning, flamboyant, bold, different, and yet so wearable and modern—true to Piaget,” Comar says.

Piaget high jewelry emerald cuff watch
Cuff watch in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, 26.11 cts. t.w. emeralds, and enamel, price on request; Piaget

Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders Koi’s Garden

In its new Escale trilogy, Louis Vuitton has created three limited-edition wristwatches inspired by the personal collections of Louis Vuitton’s grandson, Gaston-Louis Vuitton, and the cabinet of wonders ethos that fueled his voracious approach to collecting.

Distinguished by the métiers d’art used in creating them, the pieces depict different scenes through a mix of esoteric materials. The result of 150 hours of meticulous handwork, the Escale Cabinet of Wonders Koi’s Garden watch (below) features a dial showing two carp swirling in a stream surrounded by smooth, colorful pebbles.

Louis Vuitton Escale watch
Escale Cabinet of Wonders Koi’s Garden watch in white gold with lacquer and gemstones, price on request; Louis Vuitton

The hand-sculpted white gold carp are coated in translucent blue lacquer, while smoky quartz and rock crystal were used to form the amber-colored and white pebbles, respectively. Interspersed throughout are diamond-set pebbles, evoking the scintillating effect of sunlight on water. Blue pebbles of rock crystal layered over a mother-of-pearl disc engraved with Louis Vuitton Monogram flowers are designed to evoke the look of ripples.

Top: Cuff watch in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, 26.11 cts. t.w. emeralds, and enamel, price on request; Piaget

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By: Victoria Gomelsky

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