British jewelry brand Robinson Pelham is celebrating a milestone 25 years in business.
The brainchild of Vanessa Chilton, Zoe Benyon, and Kate Pelham Burn, the London-based brand has made a name for itself through its colorful rainbow jewelry, taking it from a small bespoke salon in 1996 to a worldwide jeweler whose work is seen on connoisseurs, celebrities, and royals alike. “We started out 25 years ago with no plan, just a passion for jewelry and something we each had to bring to the table—design, goldsmithing, gemology, merchandising, and sales experience,” says Zoe Benyon.
Robinson Pelham kicked off its anniversary celebrations at the Couture show in Las Vegas in June and has a number of new collections and line extensions, from limited-edition creations to colorful updates to existing classics.
One of the latter is Arena, one of Robinson Pelham’s current best sellers and for good reasons: big, bold gemstones; luscious, substantial yellow gold; striking color combinations, some contrasting, others complementing.
The collection’s name refers to the oval shape of, well, an arena, a “never-ending circuit around a central shape,” according to the brand. You’ll see that shape repeated in each ring, in a variety of colorful gemstones, many surrounded by accent stones but others solitary in style.
With an anniversary update, Arena has gotten a bright glow up courtesy of many a jeweler’s current favorite detail: enamel.
“Enamel is a bold, expressive way to bring a color injection into a piece of jewelry,” says Vanessa Chilton. “We love enamel because there are so many options to use, and there are no restrictions to the color palette.”
A sentiment that is exemplified in the collection’s array of shades, from a chartreuse paired with yellow beryl to a baby pink and morganite combination, a gorgeous turquoise and blue topaz to a wholly wonderful green enamel, diamond, and emerald combination—the last of which is an extension of Robinson Pelham’s collaboration with Muzo (shown at top).
This year (and no doubt the years to come) screams for color, either in celebration of a return to living or a rebellion against fading into the background (or both). The latest from the British jeweler—this collection and its other new offerings—more than suit the occasion.
So with 25 years in business, what advice do the women behind Robinson Pelham have to offer to designers just getting their start in the industry? “If we were going to do it all over again now, we would probably have started with a clearer business plan! If you want your brand to feel legitimate, follow your instincts, design what makes you tick (not what you think you should be designing), then make the piece, put it out there, and those who love it will find you. If you can combine that with taking criticism well, then you will have a strong start.”
Top: Limited-edition Arena ring in 18k yellow gold with 2.1 ct. Muzo emerald, enamel, and 1.2 cts. t.w. diamonds, $15,000; Robinson Pelham
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