The movie poster for The Godfather Coda: The Death of Michael Corleone (aka Part III) tells you all you need to know about the pinky ring’s checkered past: Michael Corleone wears what appears to be a gold signet ring on his right pinky finger, cementing the style’s reputation as an accessory for the gangster life.
Even though the pinky ring’s history goes back to the 19th century, when Victorian dandies and unmarried women in England wore diminutive bands to denote their disinterest in marriage, the ring style developed a connection to organized crime over the course of the 20th century, perhaps a result of its symbolic ties to family and the notion of loyalty.
Lately, however, pinky rings have transcended those dubious associations to become one of the hottest jewelry trends. No longer reserved for men (or mafia bosses), the style appears in countless iterations, from diamond-set signets to eye-catching enamel and gemstone combos. Check out the 23 pieces featured here for a sampling of just how varied the category has become.
Top: Cobblestone small signet ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.35 ct. t.w. multishape diamonds, $2,550; Kwiat