The media got a look at winners and other entries into the 2012 American Gem Trade Association Spectrum and Cutting Edge Awards Oct. 24 in lower Manhattan. The annual event, now in its 28th year, helps many entrants—not just winners—earn recognition in trade and consumer press, and placement opportunities in editorial photo shoots, not to mention television and film spots.
The American Gem Trade Association received 454 entries this year—a slight increase from 2010’s 450. According to AGTA president Doug Hucker, trends among this year’s entries included Ethiopian opal, red stones, and less oxidized metal and rough diamond petals. “In Hong Kong, there was a lot of red, too,” he observes. “From red spinel to tourmaline, to quality ruby—either estate or Windsor rubies—red is hot.” Also of note: an increase in the number of two-finger rings.
The competition itself was held over the weekend of October 22–23 in New York City at a penthouse studio in Greenwich Village. Judges for the 2011 competition included Klaus Burgel, master goldsmith; Sylvain Chervin of Carvin French; Cindy Edelstein of the Jewelers Resource Bureau; Patricia Faber of Aaron Faber Gallery; and Clay Zava of Zava Master Cuts.
Award winners will be feted during the AGTA Dinner Dance and Awards Gala on Feb. 4 in Tucson, Ariz., during the 2012 AGTA GemFair Tucson, which runs Jan. 31–Feb. 5.
A list of winners follows; more photos will be published as they become available.
Spectrum Awards
Best of Category Winners
Best of Show: Todd Reed, Todd Reed Inc.
Palladium and 22k yellow gold locket featuring blue moonstones, grey diamonds (24.51 cts. t.w.), blue sapphires (17.34 cts. t.w.) and white diamonds (5.10 cts. t.w.) opening to reveal a 76.03 ct. moldavite Buddha
Best Use of Color: Deirdre Featherstone, Featherstone Design
Platinum earrings featuring removable opal enhancers (15.64 cts. t.w.) accented with blue zircons (3.27 cts. t.w.), tanzanites (3.53 cts. t.w.), Paraiba tourmalines (0.40 cts. t.w.) and diamonds (5.79 cts. t.w.)
Best Use of Platinum and Color: Michael Endlich, Pavé Fine Jewelry
Platinum ring featuring a 19.05 ct. cushion-cut aquamarine with pavé-set diamonds (0.41 ct. t.w.)
Best Use of Palladium & Color: Dennis de Jonghe, Dennis de Jonghe
Palladium pendant featuring a 16.39 ct. aquamarine accented with a 2.09 ct. moonstone, diamonds (0.26 ct. t.w.), and pearls
Best Use of Pearls: Anil Maloo, Baggins Inc.
18k white gold and black rhodium-plated earrings encrusted with light cognac diamonds (8.16 cts. t.w.) and 13.3 mm cultured South Seas pearls
Fashion Forward: Belle Brooke Barer, Belle Brooke Designs Inc.
Oxidized sterling necklace featuring an approximately 30 ct. blue chalcedony cabochon accented with diamonds (0.55 ct. t.w.)
Category Winners:
Bridal Wear
Bridal Wear – 1st Place: Maria Canale, Richard Krementz Gemstones
Lace ring in platinum with a 4.10 ct. blue sapphire accented with diamonds (0.77 ct. t.w.)
Bridal Wear – 2nd Place: Erica Courtney, Erica Courtney
Earrings in 18k yellow gold with diaspore (2.99 cts. t.w.), demantoid garnets (2.71 cts. t.w.), and diamonds (2.81 cts. t.w.)
Bridal Wear – 3rd Place: Craig Slavens, AuRTWORK Jewelry
Pendant in platinum and 18k yellow gold featuring a 3.92 ct. rose-cut black diamond accented with black and white diamond melee (0.52 ct. t.w.) on an 18k white gold chain set with black and white diamonds (0.71 ct. t.w.)
Bridal Wear – Platinum Honors: James Currens, J.W. Currens Inc.
Ring in platinum with a 16.80 ct. Sugarloaf ruby accented with diamonds (4.54 cts. t.w.)
Bridal Wear – Entry Platinum Innovation: Mark Schneider, Mark Schneider Design
Ring in platinum with a 1.81 ct. round blue sapphire accented with white diamonds (0.14 ct. t.w.)
Bridal Wear – Palladium Prestige Award: Mirjam Butz-Brown, Adorn Gallery
Earrings in palladium and 14k yellow gold featuring quartz and mother-of-pearl accented with diamonds (0.16 ct. t.w.) with detachable mirror-cut amethyst drops (21.50 cts. t.w.)
Bridal Wear – Manufacturing Honors: Mark Schneider, Mark Schneider Design
Earrings in platinum with 12 mm black Tahitian pearls and 8 mm cultured freshwater pearls accented with white diamonds (0.99 ct. t.w.) and black diamonds (0.53 ct. t.w.)
Bridal Wear – Honorable Mention: Leonard McCue, L.A.M. Goldsmiths
Hearts and Arrows ring in platinum with a 19 ct. pear-shape moonstone accented with diamonds (2.37 cts. t.w.)
Bridal Wear – Honorable Mention: Yehouda Saketkhou, Yael Designs
Baroness earrings in 18k white gold feature trillion-cut tanzanites (10.15 cts. t.w.) accented with diamonds (5.29 cts. t.w.)
Business/Day Wear
Business/Day Wear – 1st Place: Belle Brooke Barer, Belle Brooke Designs Inc.
Necklace in oxidized sterling featuring an approximately 30 ct. blue chalcedony cabochon accented with diamonds (0.55 ct. t.w.)
Business/Day Wear – 2nd Place: Michele Mercaldo, Michele Mercaldo Contemporary Jewelry
Ring in palladium featuring a 2.64 ct. pink sapphire accented with diamonds (0.17 ct. t.w.)
Business/Day Wear – 3rd Place: Heather Moore, Heather B. Moore Inc.
Necklace in 14k yellow gold dubbed “I Love You More Than the Moon, the Stars and the Sun” featuring a 54.70 ct. rubellite tourmaline cabochon accented with diamonds (3.50 cts. t.w.)
Business/Day Wear – Platinum Honors: Leon Mege, Leon Mege Inc.
Ring in platinum featuring a 16.76 ct. Paraiba tourmaline cabochon accented with antique cushion-cut diamonds and diamond melee (3.10 cts. t.w.)
Business/Day Wear – Entry Platinum Innovation: Susan Drake, Spectrum Art & Jewelry
Ring in platinum and yellow gold featuring a 1.08 ct. emerald-cut red spinel accented with diamonds (0.18 ct. t.w.)
Business/Day Wear – Palladium Prestige Award: Dawn Muscio, D. Muscio Designs
Isis ring in palladium and 14k rose gold featuring a 19.98 ct. buff-top chrysocolla accented with peridots (0.36 ct. t.w.) and diamonds (0.11 ct. t.w.)
Business/Day Wear – Manufacturing Honors: Norman Turgeon, Turgeon-Raine Jewellers
Earrings in 18k rose gold featuring Passion Flower–cut amethysts (6.92 cts. t.w.) accented with chrome tourmalines (0.34 ct. t.w.) and diamonds (0.40 ct. t.w.)
Business/Day Wear – Honorable Mention: Pamela Froman, Pamela Froman Fine Jewelry
Crushed Frame ring in 18k yellow and pink gold ring featuring a 14.11 ct. opal accented with diamond pavé (0.32 ct. t.w.)
Business/Day Wear – Honorable Mention: Sylva Yepremian, Sylva & Cie.
Necklace in 18k yellow gold featuring a cross pendant of trapiche emeralds (54.65 cts. t.w.) accented with diamonds (2.5 cts. t.w.)
Classical
Classical – 1st Place: James Currens, J.W. Currens Inc.
Ring in platinum featuring a 14.25 ct. unheated ruby cabochon accented with diamonds (7.97 cts. t.w.)
Classical – 2nd Place: Ashok Sancheti, Pioneer Gems
Earrings in platinum featuring emerald cabochon drops (18.45 cts. t.w.) accented with emeralds (18.21 cts. t.w.) and diamonds (4.81 cts. t.w.)
Classical – 3rd Place: Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore LLC
Pendant in platinum featuring an 11.80 ct. pear-shape morganite accented with fancy-colored and white diamonds (7.09 cts. t.w.)
Classical – Platinum Honors: Erica Courtney, Erica Courtney
Ring in platinum featuring an 11.19 ct. Imperial pink topaz accented with diamonds
Classical – Entry Platinum Innovation: Steph Farber, LeRoy Jewelers
Waterfall pendant in platinum featuring a 16.9 ct. carved rutilated quartz and three rainbow moonstones accented with diamonds (0.25 ct. t.w.)
Classical – Palladium Prestige Award: Dennis de Jonghe, Dennis de Jonghe
Ring in palladium featuring a 16.5 mm white South Seas pearl accented with round diamonds (0.71 ct. t.w.)
Classical – Manufacturing Honors: Ricardo Basta, E. Eichberg Inc.
Eternity bands in tri-color 18k yellow gold and platinum featuring rubies (0.34 ct. t.w.), tsavorite garnets (0.28 ct. t.w.), and sapphires (0.21 ct. t.w.)
Classical – Honorable Mention: Frank Caballero, Frank Caballero
Rring in 18k white and yellow gold featuring a 9.11 ct. round Madeira citrine accented with white round diamonds (0.62 ct. t.w.)
Classical – Honorable Mention: Christo Kiffer, Sissy’s Log Cabin
Art Deco ring in platinum featuring a 4.84 ct. oval black opal cabochon accented with emeralds (1 ct. t.w.), blue sapphire melee (0.88 ct. t.w.), and diamonds (0.93 ct. t.w.)
Evening Wear
Evening Wear – 1st Place: Ion Ionescu, Ionescu Design Inc.
Pillow for Dreaming ring in palladium and black rhodium featuring a 36 ct. carved labradorite accented with Paraiba tourmalines (1.50 cts. t.w.)
Evening Wear – 2nd Place: Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry
Ring in 14k black rhodium-plated white gold featuring an 11.54 ct. peridot accented with blue sapphires (12.01 cts. t.w.)
Evening Wear – 3rd Place: Robert Pelliccia, J.R. Dunn Jewelers
Dangle earrings in 18k white gold featuring natural blue jade accented with sapphires (6.76 cts. t.w.) and diamonds (1.18 cts. t.w.)
Evening Wear – Platinum Honors: Evelyn Clothier, Evelyn Clothier Jeweler
Butterfly brooch in platinum featuring brown diamond slices (104.42 cts. t.w.) accented with a 5.06 ct. brown diamond and white diamonds (3.04 cts. t.w.)
Evening Wear – Palladium Prestige Award: Naomi Sarna, Naomi Sarna Designs
Ring in palladium featuring a 35 ct. carved topaz accented with diamonds (0.63 ct. t.w.)
Evening Wear – Manufacturing Honors: Yehouda Saketkhou, Yael Designs
Lave Ring in 18k white gold featuring a 5.49 ct. Mexican fire opal accented with diamonds (0.90 ct. t.w.)
Evening Wear – Honorable Mention: Colette Steckel, Colette Jewelry
Pendant in 18k blackened yellow gold featuring a 6.03 ct. blue checkerboard moonstone accented with diamonds (3.59 ct. t.w.)
Evening Wear – Honorable Mention: Michael Hezar, Michael John IMAGE
Bracelet in 18k white gold featuring aquamarines (37 cts. t.w.) and diamonds (9.75 cts. t.w.)
Evening Wear – Honorable Mention: Lawrence Gordon, Aspire Designs Ltd.
Ring in 18k white gold featuring a 17.62 ct. moonstone cabochon accented with blue sapphires (2.28 cts. t.w.) and diamonds (1.59 cts. t.w.)
Men’s Wear
Men’s Wear – 1st Place: Mark Schneider, Mark Schneider Design
Engraved ring in platinum featuring channel-set ruby melee (0.59 ct. t.w.) and yellow diamonds (0.115 ct. t.w.)
Men’s Wear – 2nd Place: Ryan Roberts, Ryan Roberts Ltd.
Ring in 18k yellow gold and platinum featuring a 6.42 ct. Indicolite tourmaline and a 0.59 ct. tsavorite garnet accented with diamonds (0.19 ct. t.w.)
Men’s Wear – 3rd Place: Llyn Strelau, Jewels by Design
Green Arrow cufflinks in 19k white gold featuring bezel-set black onyx and Gibeon meteorite carvings centered by tsavorite garnets (0.90 ct. t.w.) and accented with black diamonds (0.15 ct. t.w.)
Men’s Wear – Platinum Honors: Mark Schneider, Mark Schneider Design
Ring in platinum featuring a 15 ct. shield-cut rubellite tourmaline accented with white diamonds (0.90 ct. t.w.) and yellow diamonds (0.22 ct. t.w.)
Men’s Wear – Palladium Prestige Award: Evelyn Huang, evelynH. Jewelry Inc.
Zultan ring in palladium featuring a 12.54 ct. color-change diaspore accented with radiant-cut diamonds (0.43 ct. t.w.)
Men’s Wear – Manufacturing Honors: Ashleigh Branstetter, Ashleigh Branstetter
Cufflinks in sterling silver featuring 10 mm grey Tahitian pearls and round blue sapphires (1.34 cts. t.w.)
Men’s Wear – Honorable Mention: Link Wachler, Link Wachler Designs
Eye to Eye ring in silver and 14k rose gold featuring fish and worm motifs and a 4.5 mm pearl accented with sapphires (0.38 ct. t.w.), rubies (0.22 ct. t.w.), and emeralds (0.07 ct. t.w.)
Men’s Wear – Honorable Mention: Matt Conable, William Henry
Pocketknife with wave damascus blade in carved 22k yellow gold over sterling silver and inlaid with fossil walrus Ivory accented with rubies on the button lock and thumb stud
Cutting Edge Awards
Classic Cut Gemstones
Classic Gemstones – 1st Place: Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co.
30.04 ct. unheated oval yellow sapphire
Classic Gemstones – 2nd Place: Phillip Youngman, Richard Krementz Gemstones
7.66 ct. cushion-cut blue sapphire
Classic Gemstones – 3rd Place: Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp.
6.07 ct. unheated ruby
Classic Gemstone – Honorable Mention: Richard Krementz Gemstones, Richard Krementz Gemstones
19.18 ct. antique-cut yellow sapphire
Classic Gemstone – Honorable Mention: Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp.
8.06 ct. oval Padparadscha sapphire
All Other Faceted Gemstones – 1st Place: Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co.
10.07 ct. oval purple spinel
All Other Faceted Gemstones – 2nd Place: Roger L. Dery, Spectral Gems Inc.
8.77 ct. trillion, step-cut Merelani mint garnet
All Other Faceted Gemstones – 3rd Place: Phillip Youngman, Richard Krementz Gemstones
15.20 ct. cushion-cut sphene
All Other Faceted Gemstones – Honorable Mention: Ben Kho, Kho International Inc.
18.80 ct. round Portuguese-cut rhodochrosite
Phenomenal Gemstones
Phenomenal – 1st Place: Robyn Dufty, DuftyWeis Opals Inc.
27.30 ct. black opal cat’s eye
Phenomenal – 2nd Place: Sailesh Lakhi, Sparkles and Colors Inc.
17 ct. oval moonstone cabochon
Phenomenal – 3rd Place: Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp.
8.51 ct. oval alexandrite
Pairs & Suites
Pairs & Suites – 1st Place: Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co.
Pair of oval red spinels (22.28 cts. t.w.)
Pairs & Suites – 2nd Place: Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co.
Cushion-cut mint tourmaline suite (158.74 cts. t.w.)
Pairs & Suites – 3rd Place: Aivan Pham, Commercial Mineral
Somewhere in the Rainbow, My Fair Lady pair of fan-cut rubellite tourmalines (26.75 cts. t.w.)
Pairs & Suites – Honorable Mention: Aivan Pham, Commercial Mineral
Somewhere in the Rainbow, Razzle Dazzle graduated suite of Asscher-cut rubellite tourmalines (26.74 cts. t.w.)
Innovative Faceting
Innovative Faceting – 1st Place: Dalan Hargrave, Geogem-USA
30 ct. Hugs and Kisses morganite
Innovative Faceting – 2nd Place: John Dyer, John Dyer & Co.
63.57 ct. Super Citrine featuring flat facets and micro-grooving for brilliance
Innovative Faceting – 3rd Place: Darrell Jang, Darrell Jang
9–10 ct. elongated octagon and concave-cut tourmaline
Innovative Faceting – Honorable Mention: Richard P. Homer, Gems by Design Inc.
30.95 ct. rutilated quartz with a single natural needle in the center
Innovative Faceting – Honorable Mention: Darryl Alexander, Sunstone Butte Mining Co.
Sea Foam and Sunset 70 ct. bubble-cut sunstone
Carving
Carving – 1st Place: Naomi Sarna, Naomi Sarna Designs
368.50 ct. carved amethyst
Carving – 2nd Place: Darryl Alexander, Alexander’s Jewelers
Immortal Flight carved agate feather
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