At every trade show, there are always a few jewelry collections that I think buyers should see firsthand. And jewelry week 2014 (taking place now!) with weeklong trade shows including JCK Las Vegas and Couture, among others, certainly has its fair share of standouts. Here are five firms that I think retailers should give closer inspection and why.
Nicholas Liu at LuxeIntelligence LUXEE3
I am smitten with this newer designer’s chic array of earring-stud climbers made in classic materials with elegant backstories (this earring is from his Daedalus collection). I love his use of classic fine jewelry materials set in modern ways that will have wide appeal.
Pegasus earring in 18k gold with black rhodium, 0.45 ct. t.w. diamonds, and gray freshwater pearls from the Daedalus collection, $5,250; Nicholas Liu at Luxe Intelligence LUXEE3
Larkspur & Hawk at LuxeIntelligence LUXEE3
Besides in estate cases, when have you actually seen foil-backed jewels? To my knowlege, you see these styles only at Larkspur & Hawk, where Emily Satloff is making the vintage throwbacks featuring different patterns and colors of foil set behind precious stones. Among her newest covetables: hair jewels and sweet, soft-colored pieces made with brides in mind.
Jane En Tremblant hair ornament in rose gold–washed sterling, resin, and steel with white topaz set over chambray material, $2,900; Larkspur & Hawk at Luxe Intelligence LUXEE3
Yoko London at JCK Las Vegas P-40
As I stated last week, I’ve been pining to cover this firm for years, and I now can thanks to the firm’s investment in some PR help. The company’s pearls, largely natural-color freshwater numbers, are as pastel pretty as jelly beans and as big as gum balls. Plus, Yoko offers fashion-forward styles like these front-to-back earrings shown below. These are a great way to introduce a new customer to an established jewelry category like pearls.
Front-to-back earrings in 18k gold with Tahitian pearls, $3,360; Yoko London at JCK Las Vegas P-40
Laurence Bruyninckx Antwerp at JCK Las Vegas in the IGC Brand Services at P-11
I can’t write enough good things about this line, designed by a young Dutch woman who, armed only with a fashion degree, entered a jewelry design contest that served as her entrée to our world. Her fashion sense leads her design aesthetic, which permits endless variations of sweet little bridal styles that can also be made with colored gemstones. Plus, she is backed by an established jewelry firm that gives her access to the raw materials she needs as well as the support structure that only a big firm can offer.
Enthrall ring in 18k gold with 0.55 ct. t.w. pink tourmalines and a Chloris ring in 18k gold with 0.6 ct. t.w. pink tourmalines, $1,830; Laurence Bruyninckx Antwerp at JCK Las Vegas in the IGC Brand Services at P-11
Savannah Stranger at Couture MUSE 838
Savannah had me at keshi (literally). She and I are both pearl lovers, so when she explained to me recently that she loved the quirky organic shapes of keshi so much that she decided to cast them, I was immediately hooked. This is a fresh approach to pearls, which are virtually impossible to price-shop and thereby are able to maintain great margins, which industry desperately needs. Get pumped about pearls, retailers!
Large cast keshi ring in 18k gold, $2,280; Savannah Stranger at Couture MUSE 838
Nikos Koulis Jewels at Couture 420
JCK wanted to include Koulis in its March feature article on fresh design talent, but a lack of PR help prevented the Greek artist from being included. Still, we love this line with its minimalist good looks and uncommon design aesthetic. The pieces are almost like abstract art in wearable form. What do you see when you look at this bracelet? I see shark bite marks, but in the most beautifully executed way imaginable. Go figure.
Bracelet in 18k gold with 15.95 ct. hematite, 3.8 cts. t.w. rubies, and 0.33 ct. diamonds, $16,738; Nikos Koulis Jewels at Couture 420
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