Heading to JCK Las Vegas? Consider adding old-school classics, one-of-a-kind estate jewels, and emeralds to your shopping list.
Photography by Liam Goodman
Prop Stylist Elizabeth Press
Many jewelry buyers are dusting off their suitcases, packing up their business cards, and heading to JCK Las Vegas at the end of this month, with shopping lists based largely on what’s been selling well over the past year. Bolstered by a strong economy, high consumer confidence, and a growing number of self-purchasers, small independent fine jewelers making plans for the show sound optimistic about sales in 2018 and appear poised to write orders. For some, strengthening relationships with prospective vendors, discovering new talent, and educating themselves on the latest technologies are priorities. “We go to the show for two things: to see what’s going on and to be seen,” says Shelley Hirsh, co-owner of Richard T. Hirsh Jewelers in Dallas. For others, however, the primary goal is to replenish what’s been flying off the shelves. No matter which camp you’re in, the JCK show is a premier destination to discover what’s new and next in the fine jewelry market. Here, we list this year’s top five jewelry must-haves.
1 / Diamond Solitaires
In the last several years, many brides were on a quest to emulate celebrity-esque oversize engagement rings. That meant settings like halos—a way to make the diamond appear bigger—reigned supreme. Now, stores are starting to see a backlash against ostentatious engagement rings and are reporting a renewed interest in the simple, classic diamond solitaire. It’s a daintier look. “In bridal, we’re seeing customers go back to traditional clean solitaires,” says Scott Udell, vice president of London Jewelers and Two by London in Manhasset, N.Y. “Sometimes there are diamonds down the sides, but it’s nothing over-the-top. Just clean basics.”
1.5 ct. L’Amour Crisscut cushion diamond with 0.33 ct. t.w. round diamonds in platinum; $29,155; Christopher Designs; 800-955-0970; christopherdesigns.com
2 / One-Off Estate Pieces
Estate jewelry is ever more popular, fitting the narrative that customers are on a quest for unique, one-of-a-kind buys. For Paul Pastor, owner of Charles Schwartz & Son, with two locations in Washington, D.C., the desire for a one-off piece trumps cost every time. “We’re not competing on price,” he says. “They come for the onesies. That’s why, for the larger diamond pieces, we do well with fine estate jewelry. They’re not going to find it anywhere else, and they’re going to have a more unique piece, which is more interesting to the client.”
Art Deco platinum bracelet with 22 cts. t.w. diamonds, 2.7 cts. t.w. emeralds, and onyx; $69,500; Provident Jewelry; 561-747-4449; providentjewelry.com
3 / Signet Rings
Bruno Mars and Cara Delevingne wear them. And now the traditional signet ring is sparking customer interest once again. Historically, signet rings were worn by men on the pinky finger and featured a family crest to be stamped in wax to sign documents. Prince Charles, for example, is rarely seen without his signet ring with royal insignia. Today, however, signet rings are meant for both men and women. They typically bear a flat face that can be engraved with initials or images of, say, a lion or a unicorn adorned with small diamonds or other colored stones. The primary attribute of the signet ring is its ability to be personalized. “American men are wearing jewelry again, and women are wearing more masculine jewelry,” confirms Paul Schneider, owner of Twist, which carries signet rings by Elie Top, Noguchi, and Marie-Hélène de Taillac. “It’s a cool look.”
14k gold Crescent Moon signet ring; $698; Pyrrha; sales@pyrrha.com; pyrrha.com
4 / Emeralds
At January’s Golden Globe Awards, emeralds earned almost as much publicity as the #MeToo and #TimesUp movements. Actresses wore all black in solidarity with the campaigns to end sexual assault and gender inequality in Hollywood, and several—such as Zoë Kravitz, Debra Messing, and Catherine Zeta-Jones—added emeralds to their ensembles. Historically, the gem, long associated with renewal, fertility, and growth, was a favorite among the suffragettes. Even Kate Middleton wore the green beryl to the British Academy Film Awards in February. “We’ve always sold emeralds, but it’s a lot quicker sale right now,” says Schneider. “It’s definitely a hot stone.”
18k white gold ring with 13.46 ct. rectangular emerald and diamonds; $170,000; VTse; 626-577-9288; vtsejewelry.com
5 / Charm Bracelets
Charm bracelets can be quaint, sometimes even juvenile, but there is renewed interest in the classic style because many designers are reinterpreting the charm. David Yurman is turning colored stones into barrel charms, while Marla Aaron makes chubby locks and adorns them with diamonds, sapphires, and rubies. Brooke Gregson’s triple orbit bracelet in blue sapphire, opal, and pink sapphire and Mallary Marks’ mixed gem jubilee bracelets are selling at Twist stores in Portland, Ore., and Seattle as well as TWISTonline. At Broken English in Santa Monica, Calif., customers are buying enamel, letter, and medallion charms from Foundrae, as well as vintage charms. “People come in to replicate the charm bracelets that their mothers or grandmothers wore,” says sales associate Mona Patel. “They’re also adding to the charm bracelets they have, and they’re starting new bracelets as well.”
Bracelet with amethyst and mixed beetles and bees and CZ in 14k gold–plated brass; $330; Bounkit; 212-244-1877; bounkit.com