On Nov. 13, Sotheby’s Geneva will hold a sale of Royal & Noble Jewels that includes an extraordinary collection called A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861–1948), from the Central European house of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha.
Featuring 114 lots, the collection reflects Ferdinand’s impeccable taste, shaped by his mother, Princess Clémentine of Orléans—a passionate jewelry collector and daughter of King Louis-Philippe I of France. Among the jewels are pieces crafted for Ferdinand’s daughters, Princesses Eudoxia and Nadezhda. Most items in the collection have not been seen publicly in nearly 100 years.
The auction is “offering us a privileged glimpse into the tsar’s refined lifestyle, comprising jewels and objects that were illustrative of his personal life,” said Andres White Correal, Sotheby’s chairman of jewelry in Europe and Middle East. “His collection is a confluence of the most prominent Central European royal families’ passion for extraordinary objects. Here, excellence, taste, and superlative craftsmanship are the common thread. It is an honor for Sotheby’s to bring such a rare collection to the market for the first time.”
The collection has an international influence, featuring designs by celebrated names like Bapst, Eugène Fontenay, Froment-Meurice, and Castellani, as well as Austro-Hungarian jewelers. Ferdinand’s fascination with colored gemstones is evident throughout the lots—their highlight is a stunning gold tie pin with nearly 4 cts. t.w. of fancy colored diamonds (below).
The upcoming auction continues Sotheby’s partnership with Philipp Württemberg Art Advisory GmbH, following last fall’s highly acclaimed Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection sale. “This collection of jewels has never left the family of Tsar Ferdinand of Bulgaria. It is a very intimate ensemble,” said Württemberg in a statement. “Some pieces belonged to Ferdinand’s wife or mother, but many others show his personal choice and taste, like the fabulous colored diamond pin or the extraordinary collection of cufflinks.”
Top: Diamond bandeau (circa 1890s) that Princess Nadejda of Württemberg wore at her wedding to Albrecht Eugen, duke of Württemberg and was most likely created by the Viennese jeweler Rothe & Neffe for her mother, Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, princess consort of Bulgaria, estimate $80,000–$120,000 (photos courtesy of Sotheby’s)
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