When the Japanese jewelry designer Hirotaka Inoue introduced Gossamer, his debut jewelry collection, in 2010, pearls did not have the same cachet with designers as they do today.
“Pearls were once considered something for grandmothers, but I think they became fashionable among editors and stylists after Karl Lagerfeld’s collection with pearls in 2011,” Inoue, who brand is called, simply, Hirotaka, tells JCK. “Inspired by this, I incorporated pearls with a bit of a rebellious twist, which was well-received by editors and buyers.”
While the first Gossamer pieces “primarily featured delicate diamond designs, with fine lines that created a dainty, personal jewelry aesthetic,” Inoue says, the second collection, which he showcased in New York around 2011, incorporated pearls for the first time.
“One standout piece from that collection was the Pearl Arrow earring, which became a big hit,” he says. “Buyers, including those from Barneys New York, were intrigued by the design—some even struggled to figure out how to wear the earrings, but they loved it. I’m still fond of the minimal yet edgy approach we took with traditional pearls.”
Thirteen years later, “minimal yet edgy” still describes Hirotaka’s design ethos, showcased to great effect in Drosera, the brand’s newest collection, named after the mysterious Drosera plant, known for its tentacle-like tendrils.
“The inspiration for the Drosera pearl collection came from my fascination with carnivorous plants, particularly the Drosera,” Inoue says. “I’m intrigued by how these plants thrive in nutrient-poor environments, using their unique strategies to attract and digest insects. The movement and mysterious nature of the plant really inspired me in my jewelry design.
“Initially, the Drosera collection featured only diamonds and gold, but I decided to incorporate pearls to give the pieces a more organic feel.”
Signature to the collection is the Drosera akoya pearl ear cuff, which Inoue designed “to capture the slow, graceful motion of the plant’s tentacles as they move after catching prey,” he says. “I aimed to convey that feeling through an abstract form, creating a piece that evokes that movement in a subtle, elegant way.”
A series of cuff rings boast a similar silhouette to the ear cuff. “With these pieces, I aimed to capture the motion of the Drosera plant,” he says. “The pearl is positioned on the outside of the ring, facing outward, making it a unique and intriguing piece to wear.”
In the nearly 15 years since Hirotaka introduced its edgy pearl aesthetic, jewels contrasting pearls with metal in designs that belie the gem’s reputation as an icon of femininity have become de rigueur among younger jewelry buyers. Inoue has witnessed that evolution firsthand.
“From the start, my clients were in their mid-30s, and that hasn’t changed much,” Inoue says. “However, pearl jewelry is now popular with a younger audience as well which is known to be more experimental and playful in nature.”
Top: Model wearing Drosera ear cuff in 10k yellow gold with akoya pearl, $700; Hirotaka
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