From Oct. 7 to 11, London-based jeweler S.J. Phillips is celebrating 150 years in business with an impressive exhibit of more than 120 antique rings spanning 20 centuries. The “Marvels in Miniature: The Jonest Collection” show (to be held at 26 Bruton St. in London) will feature rings that are as beautiful as they are meaningful. Here, we preview just a few highlights, categorized by type of ring.
Tokens of love
This Roman engagement band in gold from the 2nd or 3rd century A.D. was crafted using the openwork technique known as opus interrasile and features the inscription “anima dulcis vivas mecu” (“sweet soul, live with me”).An 18th-century ring with inverted twin pear-shape rubies and diamondsThe inscription on the inside of this 16th-century band, “Mon coeur est a vous,” translates to “My heart is yours” and has pink enameled hearts between each word.
Signets
An example of signets popularized from the 12th through 18th centuries, this gold signet ring shows the round badge of King Richard II (from the late 14th to early 15th century).
Miniature works of art
The exhibit showcases the work of goldsmiths, carvers, and gem setters through the ages, including this Roman example from the 1st century A.D., a gold ring with an agate cameo.
Memento mori
Jewels such as this British ring in gold and enamel from the 16th century served as not-so-subtle reminders of mortality: memento mori translates to “Remember that thou shalt die.”
Top: A 17th-century swivel locket ring commemorating the marriage of King Charles I and Henrietta Maria of France in 1625 (photos courtesy of S.J. Phillips)
