I have been a big fan of Ellis Mhairi Cameron’s work for several years now. I love the Scottish jeweler’s way with natural diamonds, how her golden settings appear to have grown around the stones in found-like-that form.
Of course, no diamond is ever actually found like that, and it takes loads of effort and talent to craft such an effect.
The London-based designer creates jewels using wax forms. She has taken influence from ancient weaponry unearthed on her family’s farmland for her just-debuted collection, Armach, which in Scottish Gaelic translates to covered with armor.
Featuring white and colored diamonds set in 14k yellow gold, Armach includes many engagement rings (though they could be worn as everyday pieces) as well as earrings, bracelets, necklaces, and other rings. The highest price point of the collection, and of the designer’s entire line, is an epic choker with 144 baguette diamonds, retailing for over $73,000.
JCK had a few questions for Ellis about this latest release and what we may see from her in the future.
Describe your design process—how did the inspiration from ancient weaponry translate to wearable jewels?
I always start with a visual mood board: images of the pieces, textures, little details that are subtle but feel important to explore, whether it’s the silhouette of a shape or tiny corner details that would normally go unnoticed. I also write out words that feel important—identifiers for the collection and how it makes me feel, or what I hope to communicate with the pieces.
I then start to loosely sketch out ideas before building shapes, textures, and patterns in wax, as seeing things take shape three-dimensionally is how I really start to think. For this collection, while it does visually reference the objects we excavated—textural jagged edges and reverse-set baguette diamonds, to show their sharper angles—it’s also a conceptual exploration of ancient armor and the connotations armor has.
What sort of message do you hope to convey to your customers with these creations?
When I was researching the objects, exploring ideas of protection in historical Scotland, it really made me think about what I do to feel confident and secure in everyday life. Visually, over the years I have explored my identity and what feels most like “me.” My upper body is covered in tattoos—imagery taken from my sketchbooks and paintings—my ears have 14 piercings, and the clothes and makeup I gravitate towards are always black, always textured and layered. All these things come together to form a sense of self. I think regardless of your personal style or aesthetics, this is a concept that feels relatable.
As I was working on the collection, I asked friends, family, clients all about their rituals—the sorts of things you do to feel most like you, to be confident in daily life. For the collection I really wanted to explore these feelings of power, to create pieces that help my clients feel strength. Jewelry can be so powerful in this way—layering rings, chains, and earrings together, to feel ready for the day.
Do you have a favorite Armach piece?
It’s hard to choose. I’m always drawn towards rings—there’s just something about a ring that speaks to me. The whole collection began with a sketch of the Armach diamond eternity ring I [pictured at top], it was the visual starting point for Armach, so that holds a special place for me.
But despite my love of rings, creating the Armach diamond scatter choker was really special. I wanted to create something with a sense of weight that lay along the collarbones comfortably and intentionally, while using the diamonds to catch in the light.
What sources of inspiration can we expect for your future collections?
I feel lucky to be able to continually explore my Scottish heritage in new ways. The beauty of metal detecting on the farmland is the unpredictability—you never know what you will find next, and what that will inspire. I have so many new ideas that are still in texture-sample stages, and I can’t wait to spend more time experimenting.
Top: Armach eternity ring I in 14k yellow gold with 3.8 cts. t.w. diamonds, $33,566; Ellis Mhairi Cameron
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