You know how hanging out on the beach can find you in the odd position of spending a day with total strangers since they’ve set up a stone’s throw from your blanket and umbrella (or vice versa as the case may be)? Two years ago my husband and I amused ourselves on Block Island’s Crescent Beach by saying “Gold Chain Summer” whenever we saw a gaggle of TikTokers. They’d be clustered around a volleyball net or just commingling en masse in what could have been a family reunion if they weren’t all under the age of 25 and redolent of what my high school principal would have called reefer.
The bros in particular caught my eye (oh, stop) because invariably quite a few of them always seemed to be wearing gold chains—retro curb links, or ball chains dangling some sort of medallion. Failing that, it was a shark’s tooth (or similar) on leather cord.
These adornments stood out to me as novel then; meanwhile my husband was impressed that “Gold Chain Summer” kept presenting itself as a fitting epithet for the TikTokers—a nickname only two Gen Xers could manage to come up with for these youngsters—who had ferried to the island on that particular day, Yeti coolers full of hard seltzer in tow.
In the intervening years since, Gold Chain Summer has endured to become a seasonless phenomenon, something I continue to see not only on twentysomethings but on local dads (even the pickleballers) and at least one 7-year-old boy in my daughter’s class.
Even curiouser, cut to Father’s Day 2024: On a lark, I let my daughter pick out a few gifts for her dad at the local Five Below and among them was a base metal cable chain (I hesitate to call it actual silver). I thought it would be fun for a laugh, but guess who is happily wearing it in earnest? I can hardly believe it myself.
This to me indicates that for many men, wearing jewelry has shifted from a novelty to a delight. There is a spectrum, of course (my husband being on the barely there/noncommittal end of it). But if they have been on the chain train since two summers ago? They are likely hungering for ever more new and exciting options.
And for this, let’s direct our attention to some newness in the men’s category.
First up is Chris Ploof, who is feeling bike chains and inlaid leather.
“I like mixing materials, and I love technical challenges,” says the designer, an avid cyclist and former bicycle repair pro. “Many of the new men’s pieces I made for myself, and I am delighted that other men are loving them as well.”
Meanwhile, the designer’s Damascus steel cuffs and pendants are taking an exotic turn: Thanks to an intro from Aether Diamonds, Ploof is using lionfish, dragonfin, and python—all invasive species—leather inlay sourced from Inversa Leather. The supplier claims to harvest these materials ethically in the U.S., where populations of harmful nonnative species are affecting U.S. biodiversity and ecosystems.
Next are pieces that might be collectively called Men in Pearls—The Sequel (directed by Assael, naturally). Which is to say that pearl brooches are popping up on red-carpet lapels. It’s the next phase of gender-fluid pearls dovetailing with the well-established Men in Brooches trend. “In addition to pearls being a ‘non-bling’ 24-hour-gem, periods in history show us that pearls have always been a top choice for men,” says Peggy Grosz, senior vice president and creative director at Assael.
Finally, most jewelry editors who have gotten to know the Ukrainian line Guzema are genuinely into it, especially the chicer-than-chic gold chokers and fringey rings. New to designer Valeriya Guzema’s collection this year is the Vi Levare men’s jewelry capsule, which was a collaboration with her husband, pilot Timur Fatkullin.
Drawing inspiration from the sky, aviation, lift force, and dreams, the collection debuted at JCK Las Vegas this year.
“The Vi Levare collection emerged during the most challenging times for our brand, our team, and our homeland Ukraine—and that speaks volumes,” shares Guzema. “This collaboration embodies strength, bold aspirations, interaction, and the impetus to move in the right direction.”
A portion of the proceeds from the Vi Levare collection will be allocated to the construction of shelters for military aircraft for the Ukrainian Air Force.
Top: “The original inspiration behind the new bicycle chain bracelets was the challenge of designing a bracelet clasp that was unique to us, designed by me, since I am an avid cyclist,” says designer Chris Ploof. Bicycle chain bracelets in various metals, including Damascus steel, 18k gold, 14k red gold, and oxidized silver, with signature clasp, $1,210-$5,390 each; Chris Ploof
Follow me on Instagram: @aelliott718
Follow JCK on Instagram: @jckmagazineFollow JCK on Twitter: @jckmagazine
Follow JCK on Facebook: @jckmagazine
