Antique & Estate Jewelry / Blogs: All That Glitters

Hancocks Spotlights Vintage Zodiac Jewels

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Zodiac jewels have seen a resurgence over the past few years—so much so that London-based jeweler Hancocks has reported an extensive wait list for them, with clients settling for pieces that aren’t even their sign, purely for the collector’s value.

In an indication that the trend will continue in 2024, Hancocks is highlighting not one but four different vintage zodiac pieces, including two by renowned designer Georges L’Enfant.

“Zodiac pendants have become hugely popular, and the original ones from the late ’60s and ’70s are the most coveted, particularly ones made by Georges L’Enfant,” said Guy Burton, managing director of Hancocks London, in a statement. “L’Enfant created zodiacs of various designs during this period for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. These vintage pieces are great conversation-starters and are fabulous examples of a piece of jewelry that really connects to the wearer. They make a thoughtful gift and would be a wonderful addition to a growing jewelry collection.”

Cartier pendant
Cartier zodiac pendant, circa 1990, in 18k yellow gold with a brilliant-cut diamond, £8,750 (approximately $11,140)

Each of the 12 zodiac signs is engraved around the edge of Cartier’s hexagonal pendant, and the bezel-set diamond has a screw fixture so it can be moved to the sign of your choice.

Georges Lenfant
Georges L’Enfant for Van Cleef & Arpels Capricorn pendant in 18k yellow gold, £13,500 (approximately $17,190)

Created by L’Enfant for Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1970s, this gold pendant depicts a goat—the symbol for Capricorn—on one side and the Roman numerals XXI XII and XX I on the reverse, as Capricorns are born between Dec. 21 and Jan. 20.

Tiffany pendant
Tiffany & Co. Aries pendant (also pictured at top), circa 1970s, in 18k yellow gold, £9,950 (approximately $12,670)

Tiffany’s large—1.7 inches in diameter—round piece features a ram, representing Aries, in high relief for a gorgeous, multidimensional effect. The gold boasts a textured finished.

Georges Lenfant pendant
Georges L’Enfant for Van Cleef & Arpels Gemini pendant, circa 1970s, in 18k yellow gold, £13,500 (approximately $17,190)

As with L’Enfant’s Capricorn for Van Cleef & Arpels above, this Gemini pendant illustrates the sign—in this case, twins (likely Greek mythological figures Castor and Pollux)—on one side and shows the Roman numerals for Gemini birthdates on the other: XXI V and XXII VI, for May 21–June 22.

(Photos courtesy of Hancocks London)

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By: Annie Davidson Watson

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