Tourmaline Is the It Gemstone of the Moment

By Brittany Siminitz | June 14, 2023

Each year as I return from Las Vegas, I settle in to consider what took place at JCK. Often, thoughts race to the latest trends—if not “trends” in the sense of an item’s popularity among consumers, then the commonalities spotted on the show floor (the two aren’t always mutually exclusive).

One might say that versatile jewelry is trending—it speaks to the current consumer mood of getting the most for your money and shopping consciously—and just as the state of the economy changes, so too does the attitude toward spending.

When it comes to gemstones, a JCK attendee might have noticed one or two gems in particular that seemed to make the most appearances, but could that truly be described as a “trend,” at least in the fashion world’s sense of the word? I hardly think so, given that any gemstone could transcend both time and style.

Still, gemstone trends exist. Last year in Las Vegas, we saw budding trends in Montana sapphire and Sleeping Beauty turquoise blossom into full-fledged demand today. This year, I’m not sure I can pinpoint such a sleeper hit. In fact, the 2023 gemstone to beat is one that’s quite obvious, yet no less exciting: tourmaline.

Stephen Dweck watermelon tourmaline earrings — *Earrings in 18k yellow gold with 36 cts. t.w. hand-carved watermelon tourmaline and faceted pink tourmaline, $29,275; Stephen Dweck*

Izi Creations green tourmaline ring — *Ring in 14k yellow gold with 2.4 ct. green tourmaline and 0.12 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,465; Izi Creations*

Rahaminov tourmaline earrings — *Watermelon-inspired drop earrings in 18k yellow gold with 19.95 cts. t.w. green tourmaline and 5.76 cts. t.w. rubellite, $12,000; Rahaminov*

Tourmaline was everywhere at the show. It appears to have edged out the luminescent gem opal—which dominated in years past—to take the lead. Much like opals, no two tourmaline look alike. That minty fresh gem? Tourmaline. How about the salmon-y pink masquerading as morganite? Yup, tourmaline. Bicolor (and even tricolor) stones brightened showcases along the aisles too, with the presence of watermelon tourmaline quenching thirst for such varieties.

Lauren K tourmaline earrings — *Sprinkle earrings in 18k yellow gold with 15.25 cts. t.w. pink and purple bicolor tourmaline and 0.33 ct. t.w. diamonds, $14,190; Lauren K*

Le Vian tourmaline ring — *Le Vian Couture ring in 18k Strawberry Gold with 4 ct. Passion Fruit Tourmaline, 0.1 ct. t.w. Chocolate Diamonds, and 0.125 ct. t.w. Vanilla Diamonds, $9,098; Le Vian*

Omi Prive tourmaline earrings — *Earrings in 18k yellow gold with 8.63 cts. t.w. bicolor tourmaline, 3.1 cts. t.w. moonstone, and 0.96 ct. t.w. diamonds, $26,000; Omi Privé*

I’ll admit I had hoped to be gobsmacked by something totally out of the realm of my current knowledge—last year’s string of Montana sapphire jewels was so memorable, I’m still mad for it—but even though the industry certainly has known of tourmaline, the gemstone can still surprise and impress with its insane range. While blue and green were predictably huge, it was a collection of pink, from pale to practically fluorescent, that took the prize for most impactful.

Vram Chroma tourmaline ring — *One-of-a-kind Chroma demi ring in 18k yellow gold with 7.75 ct. emerald-cut bicolor tourmaline, $12,760; Vram*

Suka Jewelry watermelon tourmaline butterfly — *Monarch earrings in 18k yellow gold with watermelon tourmaline, $1,195; Suka Jewelry*

Marrow Giannis tourmaline signet ring — *Giannis signet ring in 14k yellow gold with 6.04 ct. tourmaline, $4,700; Marrow*

We might have already been quite familiar with tourmaline, but if it had anything to prove at this year’s show, it’s that there isn’t much the gemstone can’t do.

Top: Abyss bracelet in 18k yellow gold with tourmaline, price on request; Christina Alexiou

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