A Trendspotter’s Take on the Inhorgenta Munich Fair

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By Victoria Gomelsky | March 08, 2023

Over the course of her 23 years as a sales manager for the Brazilian jewelry designer Antonio Bernardo, Monica Lerina regularly traveled to the United States, Europe, and Asia to manage the brand’s commercial relationships with its global network of retailers.

One of her favorite stops was Munich, where she and Bernardo, both based in Rio de Janeiro, exhibited at the Inhorgenta fair. Known as a hub for design-forward jewelers, the German fair has long attracted European retailers searching for striking, minimalist jewels from both established and up-and-coming makers.

In February, Lerina, who now runs her own jewelry consultancy specializing in inventory curation, VIP customer care, and sales training, returned to Inhorgenta after a 12-year absence to discover the latest trends.

“I’m happy I went,” she tells JCK. “I was missing the ambience, and I was happy to see the trends and meet old friends. Mostly, I went to see what’s new.”

Below, Lerina, who splits her time between Rio and Lisbon, recaps the trends, brands, and styles that stood out:

Emil Kraus bracelet
Polished gold, as in this bracelet from the German brand Emil Kraus, is big. “It’s amazing how many products and companies that used to work with matte or brushed gold are now working with polished,” Lerina says.
Schaffrath booth
Playful, spinning rings a la the Spin of Life collection from the German brand Schaffrath. “The line has malachite, tiger’s eye, everything with diamonds,” she says. “Sooooo chic.” (Photo courtesy of Monica Lerina)
Joerg Heinz bracelets
“A lot of brands are doing very thin bracelets made with colorful silk cords or a gold coil, in which you can exchange the center of the bracelet with pearls, fancy diamonds, or colored stones,” Lerina says. “It’s so unpretentious, just a silk cord, but then you have a fancy diamond.” Exhibit A: these Flex bracelets by the German jeweler Jörg Heinz.
Niessing booth
“Niessing was celebrating their 150th anniversary with a new tension ring but this time it looks more organic,” Lerina says. “They were also showing models from 150 years ago, and they look so modern.” (Photo courtesy of Monica Lerina)
Luisa Rosas gold earrings
“I saw a Portuguese designer called Luísa Rosas,” Lerina says. “The brand’s booth was truly beautiful. Pity I didn’t take a photo.”

Top: Tribe earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds and green tourmalines, price on request; Luísa Rosas

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By: Victoria Gomelsky

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