Gold and Bold Creativity Lead AGTA Spectrum, Cutting Edge Winners

By Karen Dybis | October 26, 2022

With creativity in design and craftsmanship as well as yellow and gold dominance, the 2022 American Gem Trade Association Spectrum and Cutting Edge awards proved one of the most competitive events in the AGTA’s history.

The competition, which took place Oct. 22–23 in the AGTA’s hometown of Dallas, included more than 400 entries—nearly 10% higher than last year, officials say. Shades of warm honeycomb, yellow sapphires, and a 4.03 ct. natural fancy deep yellow diamond set the trend across the competition as these golden-colored gems earned multiple awards.

Whether it was art deco–inspired necklaces that earned editors’ admiration or men’s jewelry that broke the mold, there was something surprising in every category. Jewelers also showed off their playful sides with imaginative work, including a UFO ring that came complete with handmade landing gear and a tractor beam.

William Ventura of Creations Fine Jewelry N’ Things created this 18k gold and black rhodium UFO ring, featuring a 3.64 ct. oval moonstone. It has landing gear and a tractor beam, which you can add to the ring for special effect (photo courtesy of Karen Dybis).

Organizers say the Spectrum and Cutting Edge awards take hundreds of hours to pull together, but the reward is the happy tears from the winners. AGTA board of directors president Kimberly Collins of Kimberly Collins Colored Gems says she felt emotional alongside winners she called personally, giving in to the excitement of those who saw their works recognized.

“These are awards that change people’s lives,” agrees John Ford, AGTA’s new CEO and the winner of 10 AGTA awards during his career at Lightning Ridge Collection by John Ford.

Judges this year included Susan Harrison of Jewelry Emporium, Derek Katzenbach of Katzenbach Designs, Sharon Khazzam, Carter Malouf, and Mark Patterson.

Yvonne Raley Cecile Raley Designs — Among the many modern yet historically inspired pieces in the Spectrum Awards exhibit was Yvonne Raley of Cecile Raley Designs, who created this 18k rose gold art deco–inspired pendant featuring kite-shape sapphire and shield emerald (photo courtesy of Karen Dybis).

Many of the winning pieces will be on display during AGTA GemFair Tucson, Jan. 31–Feb. 5, 2023. The awards will highlight the AGTA Spectrum Gala, which will take place on Feb. 4 at Arizona’s Tucson Marriott University Park.

AGTA Spectrum Awards entries are judged on overall beauty and wearability, innovative design, effective use of materials, quality of gemstones, quality of workmanship, broad-based consumer appeal, and potential to generate positive publicity for natural colored gemstones.

AGTA Cutting Edge Awards honor excellence and creativity in lapidary arts, including natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls, carvings, and other gem materials.

Below is an abbreviated list of winners of the 2022 AGTA Spectrum Awards. See the complete list here.

Best of Show
Dalan Hargrave, GemStarz Jewelry: 210.55 ct. ballerina carving in green beryl (shown at top)

Best Use of Color
Robert Galustian, Robert Guild Jewelry Corp.: QEII earrings in 18k yellow gold with 21.54 cts. t.w. cushion-cut mint green tourmaline accented with two keystone-cut yellow sapphires, calf-cut kornerupine, 72 round amethysts, 66 round diamonds, and six marquise-cut green tourmaline

Best Use of Pearl
Laurie Reid, LFR Studios: 22k yellow gold ring featuring a 13.2 mm cultured golden South Sea pearl

Fashion Forward
Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC: Ring in 18k yellow gold and black ceramic ring with 4.03 ct. natural fancy deep yellow diamond (shown above)

Best of Single Entries: Cutting Edge
Robert Knupfer, Knupfer International Gems Inc.: Pair of blue/green briolette drop tourmalines (75.57 cts. t.w.)

Best of Single Entries: Spectrum
Buddy Austin, Third Eye Assembly: Underword ring in platinum, 18k yellow gold, 22k rose and green gold, 24k yellow gold, and 18k white gold with 1.62 ct. black opal accented with tsavorite garnet, sapphire, and diamond

Best Use of Platinum and Color
Mary Van Der Aa: Aria ring in platinum with 2.1 ct. demantoid garnet accented with 3 cts. t.w. blue zircons and diamonds

Best Use of Platinum Crown
Brenda Smith, Brenda Smith Jewelry: Platinum hand-fabricated ring with 6.54 ct. trillion-cut tanzanite accented with 1.25 cts. t.w. round diamonds

Bridal Wear, 1st Place
Gabriel Angulo, Pompos Jewelry Corp.: Platinum ring with 2.55 ct. emerald-cut Colombian emerald accented with 0.31 ct. t.w. emeralds, 2.77 cts. t.w. custom-cut baguette diamonds, and 0.22 ct. t.w.round brilliant diamonds

Business/Day Wear, 1st Place
Zoltan David, Zoltan David: Mystic cuff bracelet (shown above)

Classical, 1st Place
Gabriel Angulo, Pompos Jewelry Corp.: Platinum ring with 6.29 ct. blue Ceylon sapphire and diamonds (shown above)

Evening Wear, 1st Place
Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore LLC: Ring in black ceramic and 18k yellow gold with 4.03 ct. natural fancy deep yellow diamond accented with 0.17 ct. t.w. tsavorite garnets

Men’s Wear, 1st Place
Zoltan David, Somewhere in the Rainbow: Kings ring in knight steel and 24k yellow gold with 29.09 ct. purple-red cabochon tourmaline accented with 0.15 ct. t.w. red spinel, 0.02 ct. t.w. diamonds, and patent inlay bead gold

Editors’ Choice, Spectrum
Ian Delucca, Khobe Delucca: Art deco ring in 18k yellow gold and ruthenium plating with tourmalines and diamonds (shown above)

Editors’ Choice, Cutting Edge
Jaimeen Shah, Prima Gems USA: Suite of 23 multicolored, Portuguese-cut zircons (228.64 cts. t.w.)

Winners of the 2022 AGTA Cutting Edge Awards are:

Classic Gemstone, 1st Place
Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp.: 4.43 ct. no-oil emerald-cut Colombian emerald

All Other Cut Gemstones, 1st Place
Ben Kho, Kho International Ltd.: 32.5 ct. sunburst-cut kunzite

Carving, 1st Place and Best of Show
Dalan Hargrave, GemStarz Jewelry: 210.55 ct. ballerina carving in green beryl (shown at top)

Innovative Faceting, 1st Place
John Dyer, Somewhere in the Rainbow: Crescendo, a 147.96 ct. orange- golden citrine

North American Mined Gemstones, 1st Place
Ben Kho, Kho International Ltd.: 11.46 ct. antique cushion-cut rhodochrosite from Colorado

Objects of Art, 1st Place
Dalan Hargrave, GemStarz Jewelry: Essence bottle made with 900 cts. t.w. ametrine accented with citrine and chrome diopside

Pairs & Suites, 1st Place and Best of Single Entries Cutting Edge
Robert Knupfer, Knupfer International Gems Inc.: Pair of blue/green briolette drop tourmaline (75.57 cts. t.w.)

Phenomenal, 1st Place
Desmond Chan, Gem Arts International: Cosmic Kaleidoscope, 14.9 ct. hot pink to purple color-change modified round brilliant pyrope garnet

Top: Dalan Hargrave of GemStarz Jewelry took multiple top awards for this ballerina-inspired carving at the 2022 AGTA Spectrum Awards, which took place in Dallas this year (photo courtesy of AGTA).

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