The firm responsible for the divine artistry of this circa 1920 one-of-a-kind platinum, emerald, and diamond brooch, which sold at Sotheby’s April 17 Magnificent Jewels auction for $2,909,000, remains a mystery.
But its winning characteristics are obvious: For starters, the brooch features “top-quality stones,” says Catharine Becket, vice president and senior specialist of Sotheby’s jewelry department. In the center is a 22.48 ct. emerald framed by five marquise-shape diamonds. “Your eyes are drawn to the exquisite emerald right away,” says Becket. “There is no clarity enhancement, which is incredibly rare for a stone of this size, and unique depth of color.”
The symmetry and geometric nature of the suspending marquise, pear, and baguette diamonds perfectly complement the emerald, suggesting that it emerged from the atelier of a fine maker. As for its lack of signage, in a culture accustomed to certainty, what could be more intriguing?