With most buyers in search of “something unique,” exhibitors at the India International Jewellery Show, held Aug. 8–12 in Mumbai, took great pains to place the bold, the beautiful, the eccentric, and the esoteric front and center in their showcases.

“This year we focused on necklaces,” said Bobby Kothari, director of Jewelex, displaying a frothy concoction of diamonds in white gold. “Buyers at the show are cautious but positive.”

At diamond jewelry manufacturer Kama Schachter, managing director Colin Shah said business at IIJS was “very good,” citing highlights such as Kama’s Couple rings in matching bands of yellow, white, two tone, and rose gold and the Style Collection including engagement and fashion jewelry.

Other exhibitors were targeting buyers seeking price-conscious pieces with style. “This ­jewelry offers a designer look and is very much in vogue, and at the same time its price points are more affordable,” said Sudeep Sethi, director of YS18, whose dangling ­earrings in gray and yellow sliced diamonds proved to be a hit.

Manufacturers sought to distinguish their products by playing up their technical features. “We put in a lot of R&D into our new Entwined Dreams collection,” said Diatrends director Sunit Kothari of his $5,000–$7,000 flexible cuffs in white and pink gold with white and cognac diamonds. “This kind of flexibility is generally not seen in gold.”

Organizers said the 30th edition of IIJS, which drew more than 35,000 visitors to the Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, exceeded many people’s expectations. “Taking into account the market sentiments that prevailed prior to the show, people came with very low expectations,” said Haresh Zaveri of the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council.

“However, for most exhibitors, the results were at least five times more than what was expected,” Zaveri said. “The gold guys rocked. Diamond studded jewelry moved slower. But jewelers who had the right product at the right price did good business.”