Melee Show Designers Lean Into Dainty, Giftable Jewelry (With Few Exceptions)

By Amy Elliott | August 10, 2021

Like a distance runner using a small-town 5K road race to prep for a marathon and get their head in the game, I decided to hit Melee the Show in Manhattan yesterday. It was the perfect way to work my jewelry trade show muscles ahead of what’s coming in a couple of weeks.

Held at the Bowery Hotel in a rustic setting flooded with light (and with a large outdoor courtyard good for mask and coffee breaks), the intimate show hosted a few dozen or so independent designers, who reported enthusiastic buyers (and equally enthusiastic feedback on the collections they had put forward).

There weren’t a lot of wow pieces (Ray Griffiths, one of our industry’s most beloved maximalists, was one exception).

Ray Griffiths rings — *New York–based Ray Griffiths brought the heat with cocktail rings in pavé tsavorite and green tourmaline and a marvelous black opal that likewise flashed a vibrant green.*

Instead, the designers were thoughtful about filling their cases with jewelry at attractive price points, most of it very delicate and low-profile in scale. Stealth luxury came in the form of diamond and gold bracelets paired with colorful stretch or adjustable cords (Scosha, Lene Vibe). Charms were in abundance, as were stacking rings, seemingly tinier than I remember them being, but then again it’s been a long time since I have attended a trade show or handled—as in, touched with my bare hands—jewels of any kind (except for my own).

Below, some favorite finds that struck me as either superbly commercial for holiday gifts and such or just plain-old pretty, joyful, exceptionally well-made—or all of these things at once. Consider my jewelry energy levels replenished—just barely—enough to arrive on the scene in Vegas with my A game intact. At that point, I literally expect to be off and running.

Alex Sepkus alphabet charms — *Superbly priced alphabet charms and more at Alex Sepkus*

Adel Chefridi boxes — Ruby-studded keepsake boxes at Adel Chefridi. The boxes were introduced for Holiday 2020, and a 2021 reprisal seems in order, especially for the committed Adel Chefridi collector (or the jewelry lover who has everything).

Kothari rhodochrosite pendant — *Strawberries and cream on a summer day! A superb rhodochrosite pendant from the California-based designer Kothari.*

Kimberlin Brown jelly opal heart — *A jelly opal heart at Kimberlin Brown, whose new collection, as ever, draws on the “sapphire of the skies, the majesty of the earth, and the transcendence of the seas.” Opal central in general!*

Lene Vibe bracelets — *Scandi sparkle! A collection of 18k gold, diamond, and adjustable nylon cord charm bracelets by Danish designer Lene Vibe. They retail for less than $500 each!*

Petra Class emerald necklace — *Sure to land at a prestigious jewelry gallery very soon: this exquisite emerald necklace by veteran jewelry artist Petra Class. It’s a beauty!*

Tap by Todd Pownell earrings — *The baguette game was very strong at Tap by Todd Pownell. When you see his collection, be sure to ask about how the stones are set—a complex process that pays off.*

Talon garnet rings — *A mini vineyard of gold rings set with grape garnets and rhodolite, ethically sourced from Columbia Gem House, were a hit with buyers who visited with designer Emily Hirsch of Talon.*

Katerina Ioannidis earring — *Greek designer Katerina Ioannidis has the most gorgeous multitier drapey silver chains, super chic 10k yellow gold pieces that look like 22k, and intricate beaded gemstone earrings. Loved it all.*

Top: My frequent Instagram stalking of Leslie Paige came to an end yesterday at Melee the Show, where I got to see the designer’s geometric, playful work IRL. Here, her signature Perch rings step out in garnet, pink tourmaline, and amethyst in recycled 14k gold. (All photos by @aelliott718)

Follow me on Instagram: @aelliott718